Tony Leonard crowns 3AW’s Pub Of The Year for 2022
Press PLAY below to find out this year’s Pub Of The Year!
By Tony Leonard
For the 32nd time on 3AW, (mine since 1996), DeBortoli is pleased to announce the Pub of the Year.
In what is our first complete year since 2019, a total of 34 pubs were visited for the year (21 of those either for the first time, or with a significant change in ownership, look or direction).
And for a first, one venue, Brunswick Aces trades exclusively in non-alcoholic beer, wine, and gin (they produce one non-alcoholic gin on premise) in a segment of the market that continues to grow at pace.
The FOUR FINALISTS for Pub Of The Year
- The Orrong Hotel, Armadale (reviewed on June 3)
- The Elphinstone Hotel (reviewed on June 17)
- The Telegraph Hotel, Geelong West (reviewed on July 8)
- Grapes Hotel, Golden Point (reviewed on July 29)
Tony Leonard’s observations for 2022…
Overwhelmingly, pubs screamed back into form during this year.
With uninterrupted trading, crowds relished a return to their local and those able to ride out the uncertainty of the previous two years have been richly rewarded.
(It is, however, a constant reminder in this fickle game of hospitality, that there are those whose livelihoods were ruined, businesses lost, and never to return, in spite of best efforts).
While there was/is a struggle to get numbers back working, by year’s end most pubs appear to have sufficient rosters to more than get by.
Unfortunately, there are some pubs that have totally decommissioned kitchens and a food service will never see the light of day.
In essence the “Pub” is a shell that provides drink and gaming. Pubs need to have a soul and it is the communal gatherings, over a meal for any occasion, that sets them apart from other forms of hospitality.
Sadly, this will not be happening for some. But it is their venue, their rules.
The corporatization of pubs continues with pubs changing hands regularly for massive amounts: shades of 2008.
I suppose the message is love your local, love your owner/operator as in time to come these will be few and far between. This is not to demean new and big players in the game, but these are run by managers, many of whom are rotated through the company before you get to establish a relationship between customer and owner.
But there are smaller players fighting the good fight and more power to the new owners of Royal Oak Hotel, Fitzroy, who without too much rearrangement of the deck chairs, have retained the charm of this ripper pub in Nicholson Street, Fitzroy.
Similarly, love to the team at the wonderful Mona Castle Hotel, Seddon. Unfortunately this pub’s previous owners fell victim to COVID lockdown, and this wonderful statesman of a boozer was set to be gelded and turned into units. Now, it dazzles.
And in this vein, much love extended to the new ‘Guvnors’ at the Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis. It is drop dead gorgeous inside and out. Similar love to those hardy souls that have taken on the Pig and Whistle, Trentham East.
But to everyone involved in pub life, still a few basics need to be adhered to.
Quality of beer and glassware still remains variable from pub to pub, pouring skills ditto, music levels during meals are still too intrusive, and most importantly going into the new year, the quality and relevance of your social media needs a constant eye to ensure its accuracy.
The latter remains your best selling tool and pubs (generality I acknowledge) don’t do this so well.
THE AWARDS FOR 2022
Best Tap Beer: Clyde Hotel, Carlton. Excellent Carlton Draught.
Best Beer Menu: Kyneton Hotel. Short, Punchy, Different. Similar love to the Empress Hotel, North Fitzroy. Both offer a range of independents and serve them brilliantly.
Best Wine/List: Elphinstone Hotel, Elphinstone. Small list of reds and whites but truly sourced locally from nearby Kyneton, Barfold, Heathcote, Carlsruhe. Loved the use of a Corovin wine pourer (a first). Anderson Fort Shiraz from Toolleen was a ripper.
Best Different: Winner: Railway Hotel, Warragul. Can’t say with any certainty that this is unique, but since 1996 I have not encountered a Barber Shop actually attached to a pub as it is here. And yes, having a drink while getting a short back and sides is all part of the service.
Honourable mentions: Chiko Roll, a very close replica of this Aussie Icon and signature dish from Goldys! Tavern, Collingwood, and the Learn a Foreign Language Night, King Hotel, King Street, Melbourne. Yeah. OK.
Best Feature in a pub: Elevator, Telegraph Hotel, Geelong West. Want to get to the rooftop bar and miss the steps – well here it is.
Best overall look: Telegraph Hotel, Geelong West. It is gorgeous.
Best traditional Pub meal: The Grapes Hotel, Golden Point. Rissoles, mash, veg. $18. With a gravy as black as coal, tasty, belch inducing, filling. Bemoaning the fact they are no longer appearing on pubs menus then go to the Grapes. They will be on there forever.
Best Music (and at the right level). Prince Alfred, Port Melbourne. Mix of independent from the 1970s, audible without invasive and able to hear Jonathan Richman singing about Pablo Picasso comfortably and what he wasn’t.
Best Meal: Two courses. Telegraph Hotel, Geelong West. Szechuan Calamari (16e), Nasi Goreng (28). Both dishes reflect a modern pub offering, generous in serving size, and laden with different touches.
Very honourable mentions to the Orrong Hotel. Aged Cheddar, Ham Hock Croquettes (3/12) were superior to most and the main Panko crumb Pork Cutlet, (27), wombok slaw, relish, was perfectly cooked and massive in size. Elphinstone Hotel 1-2 knockout meal was Pork Belly, chilli caramel, nam jim (19) and Slow Cooked lamb shoulder, (38), complete with a garden full of roast veg.
DeBortoli/3AW Pub of the Year for 2022
The Telegraph Hotel, Pakington Street, Geelong West.
Already honoured for the best rooftop bar by the Australian Hotels Association, Victoria, in 2021/22, the Telegraph is testament that old pubs that have a less than desirable reputation can be turned around with the right people at the helm.
Around 14 or so years ago, the current owners saw something here that could work and no doubt after many hours of toil and holding nerve, they are rewarded with one of the best pubs in Victoria.
Simply put, it is a wonderful pub experience.
The three runners up – Orrong, Armadale, Elphinstone Hotel, and The Grapes in Golden Point (West Ballarat) are all different and reaffirmation that pub hospitality is in very good hands.
Many thanks to the feedback from listeners and to Vince Gurcuillo from DeBortoli, a family company that has steadfastly remained with this segment since its inception.
And to Neil Mitchell for his continued support of this segment and the role pubs play in our communities.
The DeBortoli Pub of the Year Honour Roll
2022: Telegraph Hotel, Geelong West
2021: North Port Hotel, Port Melbourne
2020: White Hart, Longwood
2019: Avoca Hotel, Avoca and Lamaro’s, South Melbourne
2018: The National, Richmond
2017: Centra, Geelong and the North Melbourne Hotel
2016: Fitzroy Town Hall, Fitzroy
2015: The Tinamba Hotel
2014: Plough Hotel, Trentham
2013: The Royal, Clifton Hill
2012: Wayside Inn, South Melbourne
2011: Lincoln Hotel, Carlton
2010: Terminus Hotel, Clifton Hill
2009: Grand Hotel, Richmond
2008: The Station, Footscray and the Carringbush, Abbotsford
2007: Bouzy Rouge, Richmond
2006: The Albion, Port Melbourne
2005: Metropolitan, North Melbourne and the Brandon Hotel, Carlton
2004: The Beach Hotel, Albert Park
2003: Court House Hotel, North Melbourne
2002: London Tavern, Richmond
2001: Doyle’s, Mentone and Vine, Abbotsford
2000: Royal Park, North Melbourne
1999: The Emerald Hotel, South Melbourne
1998: Clare Castle, Carlton and O’Connells, South Melbourne
1997: Hotel Spencer, West Melbourne
1996: All Nations Hotel, Richmond