Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews Union House, Richmond
270 Swan St, Richmond
Phone: 9428 7882
When? 15 September 2023
www.unionhouse.com.au
VENUE
A first time visit to this fine pub, the Union House from the outside doesn’t look like a traditional pub, but on entering, the expansive ground floor space is highlighted by a large bar dominating on the sealed concrete floor, tables and booths to the side and seemingly squeezed at the back, there’s a smallish kitchen banging some very good pub grub.
Set over two stories, the Union House’s upper level is split with a cosy beer terrace looking over the roofs of Richmond and back to Channel 10 in nearby Como House, whilst inside, it takes on a more refined look, with the standout being a beautiful old fireplace and a smaller bar pouring very good beer.
Happy, young, connected staff work the floor (although the walking up the stairs for the upstairs diners must tire eventually!), and the food, drink and atmosphere is spot on.
No TAB//No pokies.
The pub is a later start Mon-Thurs at 4pm, but with a decent shave for Steak Night (wed $24), happy hours and locals meat raffle (Thursdays), the Union House is that type of neighbourhood pub that locals are justifiably proud to call their own and show off to friends.
In the right hands, with the right attitude, the Union House is a beauty.
FOOD/DRINK
Short, sharp, modern sums up the food menu here at UH. Eight entrees, eight mains and a couple of desserts, but a road less travelled with interesting additions to make it better level pub grub.
(Note to owners: There’s 2 menus attached to website. Not sure which is the latest but on 10/9, a third was provided with different prices.)
Lamb skewers, red pepper marinade ($17), tandoori chicken thigh, ($16), potato leek croquettes are smart pub starters.
Pork cutlet, braised red cabbage, green beans, RWJ ($38), roast chicken, potato pave, mushroom sauce ($31), cauliflower steak, cashew cream, freekah, currants $26, sit along steak, burger, schnitty in the mains. Different interesting options.
In keeping with this thinking, tap beer has favorites like Carlton Draught ($7/pot), with excellent support from independents like Kaiju, Bodriggy, Moon Dog. If a can of Melbourne B suits ($8), then you will find it here.
3 or 4 wines by the glass are available (from a much larger menu) and are sourced from small producers. Tried was “In Dreams” Pinot Noir ($14) and ‘Mountadam’ Chardonnay ($14). Both fine drops.
The average prices are;
- Entrees – $16
- Mains – $30
- Dessert – $10
Tried was;
- Chargrilled octopus, romesco sauce. $18. What a fine starter. A large meaty piece is beautifully cooked, char evident but not overpowering with gentle and moist give in the meat. Romesco, cool with the smokiness of tomato and peppers, suited this perfectly.
- Porterhouse 250g, mash, pepper sauce. $38. (Wednesday steak night $24). Three parts to this; the beef was fine, but cooked medium rather than rare as ordered; the pepper sauce and mash was wonderful (Wednesday offer is a bargain), but third, if you are a pub then stumping up for the side (TBF a very generous serve of broccolini and friends this time), still is a sticking point: full plated is what is expected in a pub.
- Lamb burger. $28. Very Good. Lamb burgers are not as prevalent as beef, but when presented like this, it is no wonder that the UH one is a superior beast. Ripper, tight packed lamb, great flavors from the harissa aioli, cheese, cos, red onion, stack of hot chips. Enjoy with both hands.
SUMMARY
The Union House is a real surprise packet. For pub historians the look is a larger version of the late, lamented Fenwick Inn, Carlton, a beautiful terrace house that slaked the thirst of many a footballer from the Uni Reds Amateurs.
There is little to give away that this is a fully operational pub looking at it from Swan St, but inside the Union House is the essence of how the younger owner/operator sees pub-life while retaining the basic living commodities of what a pub should be: A place of comfort and community.
The Union House has been under the stewardship of the team that runs the Royal Oak, Nth Fitzroy, and the Mt Erica for a few years. A genuinely gobsmacking moment was the staff professing how much they loved working here; this is rare air such an unprompted remark from staff in hospitality.
The Union House works on every level.
SCORE: 14.8