Pub of the Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Royal Oak Hotel, Fitzroy North

Royal Oak Hotel

442 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy North.
9481 4693
www.royaloakhotel.co

When? September 17, 2022.

VENUE

A true stayer of the Melbourne Pub scene, the Royal Oak has been a constant fixture in Nicholson St., for 150 plus years but now enters its most dynamic era with the acquisition by an outstanding group  of young publicans whose credits include the Marquis of Lorne and Mt Erica Hotel.

Externally, the green façade has given way to cream/white,  with the half  height deep red tiles dominating, and a  parklet in Reid St  a welcome addition for outdoor socialising.

And for those that have a fond attachment/memories of the ‘old’ Royal Oak be assured: the look, feel and direction is true to its roots.

Indeed on entering after a long absence it is hard to know what has changed, other than a bit of a declutter. The pub carpet and sandy tiles are the only remnants of its bygone era, but a new bar (2 semi circles joined), still allow for the communal stand around and gather.

New lighting creates the right mood throughout and onto the bustling bistro with new tables and booths throughout the pretty rectangular space. It’s close contact, not quite cheek by jowl dining, but there is definitely a buzz in there.

There is a dynamic crew working the floor and nothing is too much trouble. While staff shortages exist in hospitality, there is an abundance of willing workers here. Simply, they must be doing something right.

Food and drink offers genuine higher level difference. Well thought out, appealing, the total package is amongst the best in modern Melbourne pub hospo. And a simple thing such as music at the right levels for the patrons, rather than the staff, gives another tick.

No TAB (anymore)// No pokies.

The Royal Oak is reaffirmation, that any pub, anywhere, with the right attitude and direction, will always be the focus of the community’s affection.

Early days, but this pub is flying.

FOOD/DRINK

Modern, punchy, shortish menu doing smart and accessible pub food. Around 7 choices from the two main sections that demand you read each one and your curiosity is aroused. (No trio of dips, burger, S&P calamari!).

A share of sliced meats and pickles (22), or Grilled Artichokes, buffalo mozzarella, anchovies (18) prepare you for something different, but the mains return to familiar territory of Chicken Schnitzel, fennel, radicchio salad and mustard gravy (28), Rockling, chips, tartare, (28) or Pork Sausages, Cavolo Nero, smoked lentils, salsa verde (28).

As expected, the taps reflect new and old beers and wisely retained well presented is   Carlton D (7/pot, hmm) but a smaller 200mil glass is there if you ask (yay!). Wine list is expansive and offers genuinely different in name and varietals around 13pg//60/blt. Sampled was a ripper blend from Schmolzer and Brown ‘Roter’ Mornington Peninsula. Very good mix of Shiraz, Pinot N, and  Merlot.

• Entrees: $18
• Mains: $30
• Desserts: $16

Tried was;

• Entrees of Marinated Swordfish Skewers (18)//Spiced Lamb Cigs w/Harissa (16). Two pieces each is the servings size and both are wonderful. The Swordfish, moist and punchy are an excellent Lilliputian version of a main of this ever present main and the Lamb cigs, thin and long are one of the pubs specialities, mince perfectly spiced,  and do its reputation justice.
• Cauliflower Mornay. (e $14). Recommended from the specials board. Big bowl, plentiful, hot with gratinated crust on top giving way to a rich gooey cheesy sauce underneath. Worked on every level.
• Hanger steak, peppercorn sauce, roasted shallots. $34.  Excellent steak, two pieces, around 200g, the distinguishing features of this cut, full favour and robust texture, are obvious and evident from the first bite with a cracker of a pepper sauce. Fine representation*

SUMMARY

The Royal Oak, much loved through a succession of very good operators (Phil O’Connor for 15- 20 years and then Alison for nearly the last 10), remains in very fine pub hands with Will and his crew and is set for a long, and successful stay here. This crew has earned its pub stripes. 

The new-ish direction will alienate some old bar flies that liked it just the way it was, but on an anonymous Tuesday night (pub open from 4pm, Mon- Thursday, then full-whack from Fridays) any  evidence of pushback was non existent as the old bar was rocking and the dining tables were turned over twice.

 *But an old man yelling at clouds moment, insignificant to most I concede.

If you market yourself as a pub, then please retain the DNA by fully plating meals. A couple of main plates, with some chips/potato/veg pls (and not for an extra $10 as a side). You’re a pub and sadly there’s more than a few culprits doing this. C’mon.

The Royal Oak is a treasure of inner North pub life. Like its nearby neighbours, the Empress , Commercial, St Andrew’s, Railway and further up the #96 tram route, the Lomond, the pubs along Nicholson St rank as a collective with the best of any street in Melbourne.

The Royal Oak is living up to the hype.

SCORE: 15/20