Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Railway Hotel, Castlemaine

Railway Hotel

65 Gingell Street, Castlemaine.
5472 1250

When? August 18, 2023.
www.railwayhotelcastlemaine.com.au

VENUE

The Railway Hotel, Castlemaine, is the perfect example of the 15 second/left hand side of the brain theory, that in essence, influences all we do/feel, 15 seconds in the past.

Walk in, look around  and immediately Brain says ‘You want to be here’.

In the shadows of the Castlemaine station, a mere Tony Shaw torpedo away (that’s how close), you spy a gorgeous single storey brick pub, and inside with fireplaces going, it resembles an old west saloon with  a couple of bars, all manner of bric a brac on the walls with some very obscure album covers, an exposed kitchen going helter skelter, and then a small passageway leads to a most modern beer garden, equipped with its own bar (warmer weather only up there!).

Inside the compact, warm, chatty, friendly vibes entice you to sit down and take it in, while pondering very good meal and drink menus in this historic central Victorian town.

Table service for the food from friendly young staff, order at the bar for a mix of local and commercial beers and wines. But get up and observe the room: plenty going on and no one in any great hurry.

No Wednesdays, limited Monday/Tuesday (from 3pm), but somehow from a smallish kitchen, pub near capacity, there were no delays in getting meals out in a timely manner on this day.

And while many pubs/restaurants/bars talk about a commitment to locals, much of it is just talk.  Here the love of local providers is there in spades. Acta Non Verba.

The Railway hotel, Castlemaine: Highly recommended.

FOOD/DRINK

Love the fact there is your standard menu, vast and popular,  with a couple of blackboards offering specials.

Spicy chicken wings w/alabama sauce (16), Popcorn cauliflower, garlic aioli (16), Garlic, chili, lime prawn skewers (20) are but part of a 10 entree choice, all with touches that demonstrate a pride in offer.

Mains are generous and fully plated.  Grilled Barramundi Fillet, rice salad, thai chutney (36), Tomato, Prawn Chorizo Pasta (34) are part of the specials board; the “standard” offers curries (meat and veg), on a rotating basis around $26-28. A 400g Angus rump, full plate w/sauce starts the steak offer from $39.

The commitment to locals continues with the beer and wine offer. For sure there is the range of CUB products (CD served and very good) but local heroes from Central Vic are offered from Tooboorac, Woodend, Harcourt. Castlemaine’s Shedshaker is one of the taps, along with Bendigo Brewing Draught.

The wine list sticks brilliantly local, with smaller providers but nonetheless fine artisans. Mt Alexander, Sutton Grange, Bress, Harcourt, and one of the state’s best value shiraz, Killiecrankie.

Granite Hills Pinot Blanc (Kyneton $11pg), is a surefire bet from this region, whatever the varietal.

The average prices are;

• Entrees – $18
• Mains – $30
• Dessert – $16

Tried was;

• Pork Belly Bites, Sweet Chilli sauce, side salad. $18. Winner. 8 perfectly cooked cubes of this pub fav, an elevated sauce that had real taste but a fresh salad of rocket/pear/walnut, made this a fabulous start to the meal.
• Campaspe Chicken Breast, white wine, garlic, creamy bacon, mushroom sauce, mash and vegetables. $34. From the specials board, a moist puck of flavoursome chicken (supplier is highly regarded) is regaled by a sauce whose honour roll is as long as 70s disco giants Earth, Wind and Fire, and love the chicken with fine mash and winter vegetable aplenty. Very good winter pub eating,
• Fish and chips. $28. Yeah but Nah. One fillet of whiting (should check which species of whiting is offered), heavy coating, flavour Ok. Chips good, this salad stock standard though. Upside is they offer Grilled as well as Beer Batter.

SUMMARY

The power of the pub fireplace is an asset that, while understated, in the right conditions is a total value add winner and here at the Royal, they were in full swing on a cold Sunday afternoon.

And when there’s 3 of these beauties, belting out the heat while enjoying the fine hospitality on offer at the Railway, the world’s worries melt away for a few hours at least. Literal, and I suppose,  figurative.

The Railway Hotel has so much going for it and on this Sunday was the perfect finish (after enjoying the 90 years of the Women’s Weekly Exhibition in Bendigo).  The delivery of every element of hospitality matched its excellent reputation.

Hope on the V/Line, head to Castlemaine, walk over the road for a very good Victorian country pub.

SCORE: 15/20