Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Racecourse Hotel, Malvern East

Racecourse Hotel

895 Princes Hwy, Malvern East.
9571 2154
www.racecoursehotel.com.au

When? January 28, 2022.

VENUE

And so pub of the week kicks off with a most solid and reliable citizen of the pub scene in Melbourne, the Racecourse Hotel in Malvern East.

One of the more uniquely located pubs in Melbourne, the Racecourse is wedged at the top end of a triangle where Princes Hwy and Waverley Rd splits and Burke Rd is its base.

It is definitely old world, the look Spanish Villa-ish, (keep thinking of Marty Robbins El Paso), inside much is packed in. Separate area for the pokies on Waverley Rd side, it comprises 2  main areas; the smaller Sports Bar, TAB/Fox/ESPN and a much larger bistro (old school tiled floor), which really is the pulse of the pub.

Excellent, cheerful obliging staff run the bistro, with Matilda in charge ensuring all patrons are happy. It is easy to see that the crew like being here.

Food and Drink should please most palates in range and choice. Most people when they head to a pub seek consistency and reliability and here it is a badge it wears proudly.

An historical reminder of its location is not better represented with a graphic photo of the Caulfield racecourse grandstand in flames, circa 1922, the handiwork- allegedly – of gangster Squizzy Taylor. I wonder if the MRC will honour this notorious event in its centenary. (Don’t think so).

To the present. Racecourse Hotel, Malvern East is a fixture of this area and its popularity remains as strong as ever.

Good pub.

FOOD/DRINK

Very much an honour roll of pubs favourites in both categories, well presented and generously portioned. Always good to see a range of specials supporting the established menus.

Cheeseburger sliders, S&P Calamari, Saganaki were some the starters, (priced around $15), with Pumpkin/Spinach Ravioli w/pine nuts, olive oil (27), Fish and Chips (offered both fried or grilled – good) (29), while the 260g char grilled Porterhouse, full whack,  topped the charts at 38. Duck Confit was one of the specials w/lentils, broccolini, RWJ @$32.

When you see a pub providing a roving bank of specials regularly, then it’s safe to assume there’s a confidence in what they deliver.

The Carlton Draught was very good, clean taste and fresh. $6/pot is the RRP and when presented like this, there’s no issue.

Wine list offers a wide variety, well sourced and is priced around the mean, e.g 10pg//50/bottle. I like that it is not a join the dots list.

Average Prices: (note a generous shave of prices for seniors and bar menu)

Entrees: $15

Mains: $28

Desserts: $12

Tried was (from Bistro);

• Duck Spring Rolls. 3/$16. Arriving with chilled iceberg lettuce to hold these blistering hot beauties and a plum sauce for dipper, the long thin tubes were packed with flavoursome duck, and it is confidently asserted by me that the ‘spring roll’ will arrive on pub menus in a variety of fillings this year;  good starter.

• Racey Burger. $23. Angus Pattie, full whack, w/chips, was a solid example of the omnipresent pub burger, eponymously named to reflect surroundings. Good, filling meal.

• Pie of the Day. Lamb/Rosemary Pie, mash, peas, dark, lush brown gravy. $25. Really good with full marks to making an encased pie, tasty, good size with a generously helping of the support cast. There is no reason in 2022 for a pub to go short, fill a ramekin with the stewed ingredients, and pop a bit of Nannas Puff over the top and call it a pie. This is a fine example of what can be done with a bit of care.

SUMMARY

Good solid start from the Racecourse to kick off 2022, but really no surprise given the ownership is in the hands of the Nikakis family, who have been in the game for decades and owners of the nearby Rosstown Hotel in Carnegie.

It is rather unique as it packed into a small area, the like where you wouldn’t expect to see a pub; more a block of units. Indeed this was its fate before the owners stepped in a decade.

While I have no issue with a smallish Sports Bar, the fact was the competing elements of Background music, LeBron doing his best for the Lakers while Tommy Berry steering the fav home at Gosford, at rather loud levels, was perhaps one too many!

Small quibble however: all moving parts working well at the Racecourse.

SCORE: 13.9/20