Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Mountain View Hotel, Whitfield
4 King Valley Road, Whitfield
Phone: 5729 8270
When? 17 November 2023
www.mvhotel.com.au
VENUE
The Mountain View Hotel, Whitfield, in the majestic King Valley, is one of Victoria’s pub treasures.
Owned and operated by the Pizzini Family (one of only two families to run over its 100 plus year life) is testament that a pub can stand up to the best hospitality offer anywhere with great food, wine, accommodation and a feature, a golf course (R&A Whitfield) sharing its expansive grounds.
The Mountain View is an old brick prick pub, expansive front bar with tables and chairs dotted throughout with an old world bar greeting you. There is a busy look inside but not cluttered.
The gardens excel with 25 tables all shaded, greenery aplenty and has a small creek meandering through it, adding a layer of tranquility.
The beauty of any beer garden is in the eye of the beholder, but over the journey the Mountain View is on a par with the Seven Creeks Euroa, and the Cosmopolitan in Trentham in my opinion. There are not too many better than those three.
Next is the staff. Engaging, interested, personable. Want a history of the pub, best wine on offer, or something of fascination in the area? Then just ask.
Food is well-executed pub grub; the wine list is a bible to local heroes. Time passes quickly, nothing ever drags.
In many respects, the Mountain View is a “bucket list’ pub. It lived up to its lofty reputation.
FOOD/DRINK
The menu reflects an elevation in standard pub classics, and with an abundance of fine local produce at its disposal, the pub really delivers on its food.
Entrees: To start, you can sample eye fillet carpaccio with caperberry, cornichon, white anchovy, parmesan, lavosh ($23) or gin-cured kingfish with baby beetroot, black garlic mayo, blood orange, blood orange dressing, lavosh ($23).
There wouldn’t be too many pub menus not offering calamari, and the Mountain View’s at $22 compares well.
Moving on to mains, again the kitchen is happy to aim higher. Nepalese chickpea and spinach curry, rice & mango chutney ($27), roasted half duck with carrot and ginger puree, mixed mushroom sauteed with red wine jus & chervil ($45) share the honours with free range parma ($29), and full whack wagyu burger ($27).
The star of the menu is the housemade pasta. Pick one; you will be rewarded, e.g., spaghetti alla chitarra, seafood, cherry tomatoes, chili, garlic, salmon roe & lemon ($34)
And while the Mountain View is owned by the outstanding winemakers, Pizzini (Sangiovese, $11pg, wonderful), a number of local stars are available as part of a massive wine list, e.g., Dal Zotto, Darling Estate, King River Estate.
Carlton D on tap, locals such as North by North East, King River, Bridge Rd, the beer is a fine representation of local brewers with a pub standard (Just keep an eye on the glassware please).
The average prices are;
Entrees – $23
Mains – $ 35 (steaks higher)
Dessert – $15
Tried was;
- Handmade mushroom arancini, rocket, aioli & parmesan (v) ($18/4). Spot on starter. Larger balls of rice, cooked crisp, are filled with tasty mushroom and supported by creamy aioli. No problems here.
- Potato gnocchi, beef, and pork bolognaise & parmesan ($33). The standout. House made, soft and luxurious potato pillows, and the sauce, rich and plentiful, make this dish the best pasta meal of this year.
- Beer battered flathead tails, chips, garden salad, lemon & tartare ($29). Not bad, but not blown away. Fresh fish, cooked crisp, but was slightly overwhelmed by the batter. More of the former, less of the latter. Salad and chips were solid contributors.
SUMMARY:
More than ever, the pursuit of a great pub holds fascination amongst many that devour such collective comparisons as ‘The best pubs in Melbourne’, ‘Beautiful beer gardens’ and for this review, “Best pubs in regional Victoria’.
And while it is always opinion only, a given is that the latter two categories above must have in any of its Top 10s, the Mountain View, Whitfield.
The pub gets it right, using the natural beauty of the King Valley with real pub smarts in food, drink, and hospitality.
Put together, your decision to come here is hastily validated, whether it be from nearby Swanpool or Greta West, or the 580 kms round trip from Melbourne (As an aside, could the local council do something about a 7kms stretch of road on the Benalla-Whitfield Rd – simply it is dangerous).
Mountain View Hotel: A gorgeous, beautiful pub.
SCORE: 15.5/20