Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Middle Park Hotel

Middle Park Hotel

102 Canterbury Road, Middle Park.
9810 0079
www.middleparkhotel.com.au

When? February 18, 2022.

VENUE 

While the Middle Park has had its aliases over the year – Gunn Island Brewery being one, this is a pub that is as bankable as any for good food, service, comfort, hospitality, community as any in the Melbourne Metro area.

In the shadows of Albert Park grounds, this pub – three stories high of early Victorian grandeur – has so much going for it, be it the impressive front bar (one of the state’s finest), through to the very neat bistro (all gold/ black livery), with a small beer garden overlooking the shops in Armstrong St.

Completing the pub is boutique accommodation for anyone looking for that overnighter, and given the aesthetic of the MPH, a most desirable option to consider.

To me, the pub represents a communal club, all timber and exclusive with some sporting bric a bra dotting the walls. The service is spot on, the crew genuinely pleased to see you, and on entering you are immediately at ease and happy with your decision to come here.

No TAB/ No pokies, but Fox Sport channels cover overseas sport for the enthusiasts!

The front bar offers  a range of tradition taps  – Carlton D served very well* – but also Little Creatures, Brooklyn, Stone and Wood are represented. It is a pleasure to stand/sit at this bar and enjoy pub life.

The Middle Park Hotel is a genuine acme pub of Victoria.

FOOD/DRINK 

Superior level of pub grub staples cover the menu, with some very unique plates (to a pub at least) all served in the very neat bistro by excellent staff.

Entrees have Wagyu Beef Sliders w/ bacon, cheese, pickles (17) up against Salt Baked Beetroot, sour cream, walnuts, chervil (18).

Mains have a Chicken Parma, fries, slaw (28), Pea Risotto, Broccolini (25), or perhaps Beer Battered Rockling, full plated @28. However one of the more interestingly presented dishes I have seen over the journey is the Hanging Kebab, which is suspended above the plate by a metal instrument and  requiring great dexterity to get to the table without its hitting the deck. With slaw, raita, fries, flatbread, it resembles an edible version of the game KerPlunk. A conversation starter.

Average Prices:

Entrees:  $17

Mains:     $28 (steaks start mid 30s, fully plated)

Desserts: $17

Tried was;

• Beef Brisket Croquettes. $18/4. Now these were wonderful. Rangers Valley beef, formed into packed squares, well cooked brisket falls away, gentle mustard mayo for the dipper, Nice start.
• Roast of the Day. $26. Todays was Striploin. The fundamental plank for an outstanding Pub Roast is well presented and proper roast veg (no mash, no packet spud that looked roasted but aren’t) but done from scratch. Roast potato (4), broccolini, variety of carrots, Yorkshire pud, gravy, bread roll/butter. All worked so well together, priced perfectly for what was served.
• Roasted Ora King Salmon. $38. Plated with pickled fennel, radish, orange, dill and lemon, this is a unique species, sustainable, with a brilliant flavour. Presented so well, (maybe 30 seconds less for slightly rarer) this is a superior version to the much loved, omnipresent cousin that nearly every pub offers up.

SUMMARY

In many respects the Middle Park is a no brainer if you are looking to spend a few hours in a pub with family, friends or solo: simply put it works on all levels of pub hospitality and has traded as such for decades.

Like its equally impressive nearby neighbour, OConnells in South Melbourne, the Middle Park is an impressive looker and now in the hands of the ever burgeoning portfolio of the Australian Venue Co., it will consistently deliver at a higher level.

But one of the major grievances that any punter has is paying overs for the humble pot.

Yes, smaller batches, better level of ingredients, surroundings will attract a higher charge but there an accepted price for the most commercially available brand and it is not $7 in a pub*

And that is the sticking point to the MPH. Cmon, we are just back trading fully so really is this fair to the public returning in number?

Sermon over. Good pub. Always was: Always will be.

SCORE: 14.5/20