Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Lincolnshire Arms Hotel, Essendon
Lincolnshire Arms Hotel
1 Keilor Rd, Essendon
Phone: 5472 1250
When? 8 September 2023
www.thelinc.com.au
VENUE
A northern suburb stalwart, mock Tudor in its outer facade on the corner of Lincoln and Keilor rds, is the Lincolnshire Arms, a successful pub of many, many decades and now ticking over confidently with a good and appealing offer to all ages.
Deceptively large, car park to rear, the front bar, very sporting with TAB is home to many punter loving football or the track.
Genuine gathering place for pre-wedding breakfasts/post-funerals, the Linc has a loyal band of patrons every day. The size allows everyone to spread out in number (the sports bar with the horses is the #1 spot) but it doesn’t dominate if you are in for a quieter time.
Through to the dining room, (past the pokies) and again the set up is inviting with a neat bar, serving 30 or so tables. Exposed kitchen is always a hive of activity, and staff go out of their way to ensure you are always comfortable.
This is where the Linc gets it right: the mix of a modern looking pub with a traditional offer has stood it in good stead and will continue to do so for years to come.
Testament is any day of the week, there is always a buzz at the Linc. It is a good package.
FOOD/DRINK
The Linc has all pub favorites, with further substantial specials board (something which is slowly disappearing) in support, that is pleasing for all ages/family appeal. It is not overly complex/overworked food, but honest in offer and generous in plating.
Saganaki Cheese ($15.5), Duck Spring Rolls w/hoisin/plum sauce ($15.9), Satay Chicken ($16.9) supports the bread/chip offers seen often in pub entrees, here numbering 7 or 8.
Some of the highlights from the mains are Char Grilled Lamb Backstrap, w/artichoke, feta, cherry tomatoes, roasted pumpkin, tzatziki, ($38), Duck Risotto, snow peas, cherry tomatoes ($33), and a daily roast, fully plates at $26.90.
Be assured the sizes are generous.
Popular brands dominate the beer taps, and the Linc knows it must be right given the discerning drinker (read as St Bernards Old Boys) tend to frequent the bar. $6.3/pot is fair shopping these days.
Wine list will be familiar, DeBortoli products dominate here, with Oyster Bay, Squealing Pig, Pepperjack some of the better known drops. Genuine bargain is Leo Buring Riesling $10pg/$38/btle. Never, ever misses.
The average prices are;
- Entrees – $16
- Mains – $30
- Dessert – $10
Tried was;
- Grilled scallops, Ponzu sauce. 6/$16.90. How generous! Six scallops, roe intact, are accompanied by a ponzu sauce that has the right balance of sweet/salty/citrus that supports the shellfish. Good starter, and rare for a dish like this, makes for a good sized share,
- Beef Guinness pie, mash and veg. $25.90. While not fully encased, (hmm), this size of the vessel would accommodate most of Jason and his merry band of argonauts. Big serve of tasty stewy beef, sweet with the booze, and is overloaded with pastry on top that is well cooked; a bit of pepper sauce on top. Plenty of mash and good veg, fine pub meal, fairly priced.
- Lemon Tart. $10. To quote Jamie Oliver, this was a big wodge of tart that had a raspberry sauce on the perimeter of the plate, a splodge of cream and ice cream and a mound of chocolate soil. Massive, too big…. Yes it was bowled over!!. Pub dessert 101
SUMMARY
The Linc is a fine example of what your local neighborhood pub should be about. There’s nothing overly fancy, but good service, good food and drink, good hospitality.
The Linc is popular and is easy to see why; give the punters a good time and they shall return. And so they have for many, many years, while some nearby e.g., The Grand (famous for Dean and Carruthers, Sunday arvo) and The Brickies (famous for ill-tempered Bomber supporters after a loss) are long in its rearview mirror.
The Lincolnshire Arms Hotel shows no signs of slowing down.
SCORE: 14.2/20