Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Kyneton Hotel

Kyneton Hotel

98-100 Mollison Street, Kyneton.
5422 1040
www.thekynetonhotel.com.au

When? October 29, 2022.

VENUE

With a new set of eyes on an old, pretty as a picture brick pubs (stand outside and admire the brickwork from all those years ago), The Kyneton Hotel (TCH)  has recommenced trading in the past 12 months and has generated real momentum in the area.

Pub retains all the features of its bygone era comprising basically three areas; old style front bar with some  wooden tables and shiny sandy half height tiles but a wonderful spot to stand around and enjoy one or two, to the unobtrusive TAB/Sports Bar, to the dining room with exposed kitchen and then out to the dog friendly beer garden.

And while this may fairly typical, it is far from it and from the get go, the owner/operators Sam  and Tim have actively extended the offer to embrace beer/wine/food nights that embrace this plentiful region and the results have been well rewarded.

Always however the community heart of a pub beats loudly at TKH.

Food and wine offerings are interesting, service is great and in future, TKH will offer accomodation for that always sought after weekend stay in this region.

TKH is going very well now in an understated manner. Pretty sure under the same ownership, over the next 24 months,  it will flourish and be recognised as one of the better pubs  in Regional Victoria.

FOOD/DRINK 

TKH keeps a sharp, on point, menu limited  to around 8 entrees/bar food, 8 mains and 4 desserts but each item has a clever touch to make this better level of pub food.

Salted fish croquettes, (15) are supported by a grilled capsicum and caper salad, herb mayo or Moroccan Meatballs, are plated w/ yoghurt, chermoula, tomato sauce. This is my point: while these entrees abound on pub menus, it is the added touches that raise them above the tedium here.

In striving to be different, the pub doesn’t offer a Chicken Parma! Yes there is a Beef Schnitzel (25), gravy, coleslaw, potato, citrus couscous, and a Lemongrass Grilled Chicken Breast (29), Vietnamese salad and peanut sauce but no Parma (they’re available everywhere so we’ll put something else on!).

The large Sunday crowd didn’t seem to care!

Rotating 8 taps of beer from Carlton Draught to Wolf of the Willows Porter to Old Speckled Hen. All tastes/styles covered and the beer is well cared for. Similarly  a stack of wines offered by the glass, many from the region including the ever wonderful Passing Clouds (Bendigo) Viognier (16pg).

• Entrees: $14
• Mains: $30
• Desserts: $15

Tried was;

• ‘Slap Ya Chicken Wings’. $16. Louisiana Spice Blend, w/ Blue cheese dipper, these chicken wings had the right spice hit of paprika/cayenne with the ever popular blue cheese adding a lush richness. These were meaty and plentiful, just a fraction less frying needed on this day.
• Red wine and Port braised Beef Cheek, mash, silverbeet, sticky gravy. $36. Cooking was very well done, the meat fell apart after the slow cook, big slab too, and the sauces worked in so well. No problems here for a filling main pub meal.
• Cider Roast Pork Belly, bubble n squeak, apple sauce and gravy. $32. Now a pub staple, this favourite was a fine sample of how it should be served, 2 fatty and meaty fillets, and the apple sauce with the cider was a most clever combination. Loved the slab of BnS. As for the crackle, an alien and razor thin piece was placed on top, rather than forming the natural part of the usual holy trinity of this dish, Hmmm,

Summary

There is a much loved axiom of horse racing that goes along the line of … ‘How do you make a small fortune from horse racing?? Start with a big one!’ is the push button clever reply.  In a similar vein, that hoary old chestnut is equally and easily applied to taking over a pub.

Let’s face it – you’re popular, love company, across most things in the world etc. Just a matter of opening the doors and let the rivers of gold flow, isn’t it? 3 months later, your dream has turned  to ruin.

But when you have an upbringing that has lived and breathed hospitality, you have a chance at the caper and this is why the fine team at TKH is not only making a fair crack here, but soon enough in a  town that has a fearsome and competitive reputation for food and drink, you are carving out your own territory and winning new friends.

Traditional pub but with a focus on what people want in 2022 will see TKH thrive and prosper in time to come.

All done without a Chicken Parma.

SCORE: 14.3/20