Pub of the Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Hobsons Bay Hotel

Hobsons Bay Hotel

28 Ferguson Street, Williamstown.
9116 8695
www.hobsonsbayhotel.com.au

When? April 1, 2022.

VENUE

An old style brick triple-storey beautiful pub, it was a  first time visit to the revamped Hobsons Bay Hotel situated in delightful Ferguson St, and has been the subject of many favorable reviews since reopening under new owners.

It is easy to see why and any doubts that it may not be a traditional pub in a traditional pub suburb are quickly dispelled on entering.  It most certainly is.  Carlton Draught (6pot/10schooner), 4 Pines, Great Northern are popular taps and well served.

Ground level is essentially two parts with a communal bar to the right and old style pub tables and chairs to the left, supported by  sturdy tartan blue carpet.

The second floor houses a function room/private dining , while the 3rd level is a casual bar, with dining, and sufficiently elevated to take in vistas of the Bay.  (Closed on Wednesday sadly, but it is easily recognisable from James St).  But the rest rooms are on the second floor :  inconvenient conveniences.  Far from ideal, but this is where they have always been so get ready to increase the daily step count should the need arise.

No TAB/No Pokies.  Good to see the old fashioned footy tipping board proudly on display in the front bar. (Outstanding work from the patron who got the set of 9 in round one).

So with all the action, midweek on the ground floor, you head past the bar to see a modern dining room, kitchen exposed, with some banquette seating and most modern fixtures and fittings. It looks great, if not a little too snug for the larger diner.

The menus, both food and drink reveal smart pub food elevated  with some natty, but not overdone tricks.  (Pubs please note: HBH and others. It may only be a dollar or two, but please keep all pricing, indeed information on times etc. up to date on Web Pages)

The HBH is the right pub, in the right location to succeed in the long term.  Off to a great start*

FOOD/DRINK

Like any good pub, there are specials midweek, or you can ramp up depending on the budget.  Steak night, full whack Mondays $25, Parmas, again fully plated, $20 Wednesday.  Suspecting the trivia on Thursdays would be a highlight.

Normally I wouldn’t highlight the bread, but the outstanding Rustica Sourdough, 3 thick slabs and butter at $6 is a must to mop up the glorious juices/gravy.   Spicy Fried Chicken Tenders, buttermilk dressing (12), Crispy Fried Artichokes, parsley salt & romesco sauce (12),  Soft Shell Crab Slider, marie rose sauce & crisp lettuce (12ea) confirms familiar but different in the entrees.

Mains are broken into 2 sections: “Classics” and “Grill”.   Hot Rotisserie Chicken Roll, pickled shallots, butter lettuce & shoestring fries (20),  Dukkah Roasted Cauliflower Steak, smoked hummus & pomegranate dressing (19),  Lightly Battered Fish & Chips, chunky tartare sauce & salad (27). Not sure how Dukkah Cauliflower fits into the ‘Classic’ section, but to each their own.

Steaks, Fish, Chicken were in the Grill section and looked fabulous.  That said, (and I know it’s old man screaming at clouds), but surely chips/fries should be part of the all in price). It is a pub.

Wine list is priced around the mark (11pg//55-60/btle). Tried and enjoyed was Shut the Gate Sangiovese (12), and Skillogalee Riesling (13).

The average (bistro) prices are;

• Entrees –  $14
• Mains – $25 (classics)
• Dessert – $12

Tried was;

• Raw Kingfish, avocado, daikon radish, sesame & soy. $17. This was special.  Plentiful, gorgeous kingfish, with the most balanced, flavorsome juices from the Sesame/Soy.  That’s when you know you have made the right choice by buying the bread!
• Crumbed Free Range Pork Cutlet, peppercorn sauce, salad & shoestring fries. $31. Wonderful, juicy, fat cutlet, very good supporting cast, (fries included), this was a fine representation of this ever-present dish on pub menus.
• Grilled Marlin, beans, assorted other greens, chili paste. $39. Wonderful to see this rarely found piece offered.  Unfortunately  it arrived around a minute or so overcooked and was dry. There was still a nice enough taste and texture, but a minute less and it is a beauty.

SUMMARY 

*Everything works well here*. 

But, and I’m not sure why the need to have the music dominate to the extent it did (we all love Sade) rather than it support the mood as background. It caused one of the staff to mishear our order (it was Marlin instead of a Parma). The meal was slightly delayed and may have contributed to its overcooking.

I’m pretty certain that Guy Grossi doesn’t turn Umberto Tozzi up to 11 at Florentinos because he loves ‘Ti Amo’.

To be fair, the HBH is not alone. Pub owners: Please allow people to converse and socialise while eating and then we can all do our best karaoke to Smooth Operator.

‘Coast to coast, LA to Chicago, Western male’.

SCORE: 14.5/20