Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews The George Hotel

The George Hotel

139 Cecil Street, South Melbourne.
9686 5655

When? February 10, 2023.
www.thegeorgesm.com.au

VENUE 

What a great pub.

Very much a reflection of the changing face of South Melbourne, the George has moved seamlessly from ‘good ol boy boozer’, to this wonderful, modern, great looking pub in a central location so close to town.

Diagonally opposite the market, the George has undergone a brilliant facelift in recent times but most importantly sticks rigidly to its pub heritage when run by Alan George some 30 years ago.

Exposed brick, heritage colours, smashing front bar, gorgeous courtyard (The Ruins), private dining room (the Atrium) and as an added bonus a number of tables and chairs located in Coventry for the Al Fresco to  observe the hoardes shopping over the road (Or the never ending traffic jam on market days that you’re not in !).

Food is better level (by plenty too) pub favourites with a genuinely thought out wine list. Staff fuss over you in spite of constant buzz, and backed up by excellent draught, this is a pub that is bang on point. (Schooner is the smallest – Hmmm).

Pubs that stay the course in Port and South – the most competitive in Melbourne – are beloved. The Emerald, Railway, O’Connells are gilt edged no brainers for any function, big or small.

Confidently add this version of The George to that list.

FOOD/DRINK

The menu isn’t overloaded with 8 entrees, 3 burgers, 4 steaks and around 10 mains. It demands reading everything on it as buyers’ regret kicks in with every passing meal delivered to the nearby tables.

Added bonus is the SM Market. Dozen oysters, St Helen’s Tasmania is a very fair 20/39. Beef Tataki, yuzu ponzu sauce is $18, or Spiced Fish Tacos, pickled slaw, Morita chilli sauce, guacamole is $20.

Burgers are 26/27, with pubs classics such as Chicken Parma (31), Steak Sanga (28) and Seafood Linguine, octopus, barramundi, prawns, clams calamari is $36.

Commercial and craft brews are offered in number, the starting offer around $10 for  a schooner of Carlton. (My thoughts on this as entry level serve for a beer are well known). The wine list is expansive, sourced far and wide, with the average price pg $14. Flametree, (WA) is a brilliant Chardonnay from Margaret River. $16 (150ml), $25/250 ml. Worth it.

The average meal prices are;

• Entrees – $20
• Mains – $30 (steaks start at 37, fully plated)
• Desserts – $14

Tried was;

• Tapas style prawns, chilli/garlic broth, sourdough toast. Nine beautifully cooked prawns arrive in a cast iron pan, four slices of sourdough for the juices. Every flavour sensation was there, highlight the sharp and subtle nature of the broth. If nothing else, go there for that dish.
• Sirloin, rare, salad, chimichurri sauce, chips. 250g. $42. Sourced from Red Gum creek (acknowledged as one of the premium producers), the beef was perfectly cooked and had a rich, dense flavour. Fully plated, this was very fair shopping.
• Fish and Chips. $32. Two very big fillets of rockling, fresh, hot, come with a carefully made salad (all pub salads should be like this) and a stack of well seasoned chips. Beaut dish, batter maybe a touch thinner, every pub F&C should be to this standard.

SUMMARY 

The George is winning hearts and minds at a rapid rate with a well coordinated approach to every facet of the business. There were a couple of stumbles (music at lunch way too loud in dining room) but on this occasion, it is mere quibble.

This is a very good pub.

And so with a Parma and steak night, happy hour drinks, the George plays one final card: oysters and Bubbles. On market fray from 3pm, a glass of glass of sparkling, three oysters sets you back $14.

You settle into your surrounds, out back in the Atrium, enjoy your treat, daydream a bit (maybe a second?) and leave. It is only going past MSAC on the 109 tram, you realise you’ve left your gear at the pub!

Be assured, the George is wonderful to visit and revisit.

Score: 15.5/20