Pub of the Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Doncaster Hotel, Doncaster

Doncaster Hotel

855 Doncaster Road, Doncaster.
9848 1622
www.doncasterhotel.com.au

When? October 8, 2022.

VENUE 

Another piece of the gigantic Woolworths/Endeavour/ALH portfolio, the Doncaster Hotel has steadfastly remained one of the flagship pubs of this group which run to the formula of big venues in the burbs (Doncaster hardly), that does massive numbers through the doors each day be it for meals, sport, music pokies/TAB, community catch ups.

Entering from the monstrous rear car park, (you can on foot from the main drag) the Doncaster in essence is one extended and seamless space, with the only  variation to this being the split level dining room which houses around 100, with a further dining space for 50 plus.

The pub is replete with modern fixtures and fittings and on entering there is a buzz here, unsurprising as  it has been operating for close to 150 years. (Wonder if our forefathers years ago had second thoughts whether the population would come out that far!).

And in continuing with familiar suburban themes,  the Donny does meal and drink deals, Saturday Sausage Sizzle, (always think of Billy Birmingham imitating the great Kenny Callander), Jag the Joker, Free Pool, Late Night Poker, UFC etc.

But it would be foolish to dismiss this pub as …’seen one, seen em all’, as there is a real commitment from the staff,  as evidenced when a group of 90 comes to celebrate a belated Fathers Day, while dealing with the everyday punters and not missing a beat with anyone.

The Doncaster is a genuine  hub for this community, whose popularity never seems to wane.

All good here.

FOOD/DRINK

While there is commonality in food offer with its stablemates across the Melbourne suburbs, the Donny is allowed some difference with a dedicated Burger Bar, BOBs, supporting its offers of steak, fish, pasta.

(Named after a small chain in QLD, not the animated American TV show).

Like its counterpart, York on Lilydale, the food offered has some nice tricks, with entrees including Chilli Mussels, Dipping Bread (18), Lamb Koftas, tzatziki, (16), and Wild mushroom Arancini, with truffled mayo (14).

Pub favourites are there in number with a Parma, C&S (25), Seafood Linguini, (prawns, scallops, mussels) @ 29, and the Mixed Lamb Grill (cutlets, ribs, sausage, chips, salad, gravy, tzatziki) $34. Good to see the recent pub revival of Nasi Goreng making an appearance here (26).

Good news for senior card holders with a decent shave of main meal prices.

Beer was very good Carlton D (6.2/pot), with well known brands dominating the taps. As for the  wine, the average prices were $10-11pg//45/btle  and Oakridge Pinot Noir was the preferred  from a a range that had some old school names such as Pizzini, Stoneyfell and of course, Pepperjack.

• Entrees: $15 (plenty of choices)
• Mains: $25, steak higher
• Desserts: $10

Tried was;

• Pork Belly Baos, pickles, coriander, firecracker sauce. 3/$15. Very good starter. Plentiful amount of Belly (crunch/fat/meat), banging sauce, cooled by pickles, generous serve. Clearly popular amongst the troops on that day.
• BOBs classic cheese and bacon. $21. Big, big  pattie, (sausage meat primarily), double cheese, bacon, tomato, lettuce, onion, secret sauce (Maybe it was Rose Marie/Prawn cocktail?). Super tasty, charred meat, great chips/bun, (you can choose waffle fries/ potato gems), fair price, the extra pattie at $4 would be absolutely pushing the waistline!
• Creamy garlic prawns. $27//$17 seniors. rosemary $20. Plump prawns arrive in bowl (5-6), with rice, salad, chilli optional) garlic flavours through the prawns and not weighed down by a heavy cream sauce (what is it about pub meals and cream?). Enjoyable main.

Summary 

Here was the win from the get go. Arriving at 12.30, greeted with a thanks for joining us but a big group of 90 has lobbed and it may be up to 50 minutes before your meals are served. Such honesty is a rarity and as a result was happy to wait. (how often does that happen?).  As it turns out expectations exceeded, and meals arrived within 30 minutes.

Another plus was one person absolutely in charge making sure lines of communications were clear from all elements of the Pub so if any issue arose, someone was there rather than the normal shrug of shoulders and…’I’ll see what I can do’.

Increasingly large pubs like the Donny are setting themselves to do a better level of food and beverage, (this pub has been consistent on a previous visit) to try and change long held, and in most cases rightly so, beliefs that it’s all about the pokies and nothing else. (That view is very strongly held). Worse still some pubs have decommissioned kitchens never to return – (are they still a pub without a meal??.)

Slowly all elements of the business are ramping up at big suburban pubs and the Doncaster is a good example of this ever changing mood.

SCORE: 14/20