Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Courthouse Hotel, North Melbourne

Courthouse Hotel

87-90 Errol Street, North Melbourne.

When? June 2, 2023.
www.thecourthousenm.com.au

VENUE

What a wonderful pub re-opening has taken place in Errol St.,  North  Melbourne, with the glorious art-deco Courthouse Hotel awoken from a two year slumber.

This is a matter for celebration. During the mid 2000s, this sturdy boozer was turned into something special under the watch of Scott Thomas (working brilliantly now at the Junction Hotel, Newport). Day and night, the Courthouse was the beacon for long lunches and dinners, late evening assignations, and somewhere to head to for superior pub cooking and drinking.

As it was then and is now, no TAB/No Pokies, but a match was lit. This simply was a pub that never missed.

Times move on, a series of owners come and go, until it ceases to trade.

Head over a suburb or two to Naughtons,  Parkville, who once carried the proud (dubious?) moniker of  a uni pub. Like then, when $2/jug student nights was its calling card, this has moved on to be one of the most bankable pubs to wine and dine.

The team from Naughtons has taken the bit between the teeth: let’s spread the wings and endeavour to restore the Courthouse to former glories.

And early evidence confirms the teams derring-do: its flying.

The timeless brick facade still beckons, but inside much has gone on. The front bar could sit with the best in London. Wood panelling, deep lighting , tables and chairs dotting the perimeter sets it up. The split level dining room with fireplace burning, has new light brown linen wallpaper adding to the feel. The secondary dining room to the right of the bar has been cleaned up (at much expense) to house another 30 or so diners.

(Note: later start Mon-Wed, 3pm).

The food is better level eating in a wine list reads differently and  young wait staff attending to your needs, doing food and drink to your table.

Being wary of over hyped pub openings, it was more than just curiousity that led me here after two weeks of trading. Smart people however, understanding their market (ditto Royal Oak, Nicholson St), allay any fears.

The new Courthouse, North Melbourne, has made a most impressive start.

FOOD/DRINK

The menu is best described as sparse.  5 entrees, 6 Mains, 2 bigger shares, 2 desserts. That’s it, but elevated into something special.

Kangaroo Carpaccio, Beetroot purée, Jerusalem Artichoke (18) is a different starter, Beef and Rosemary Pie (properly done), Mash, Greens, Jus (30) keeps the pub vibe rolling, and a brilliant Mandarin Tart, Mandarin Pieces, Chantilly cream(15) is a less than subtle change from your standard pub Sticky date!

(Note to operators: please check your website. Even as small as menu is, there were a few discrepancies between advertised and available).

Beer on tap focuses on the road less travelled. Schooners are the entry level for consumption with Colonial Draught (11), Hop Nation Side Hussle IPA (12), Venom Golden (12) part of the range. There’s half a dozen no/low alcohol on tap, part of an increasing willingness for pubs to provide this sensible and inclusive option.

No surprise there’s plenty to choose from the wine list that is well thought out and dares to be different, with 4/5 whites/reds available by the glass. $12-14pg is the mean, with Paca Mama Riesling (Strathbogies), Dominica Two Cells Shiraz (Beechworth) a sample of different and fine drinking.

The average meal prices (bistro) are;

• Entrees – $17
• Mains – $32
• Desserts – $15

Tried was…

• Chicken croquettes, roast garlic, pickled carrot, aioli. 3/$18. Very Good. A level above stock standard croquettes/arancini appearing on all pub menus, these rectangular thick beauties come packed with chicken pieces, well seasoned. Pickled carrot adds a lovely sweet crunch.
• Wiener Schnitzel, chips, braised red cabbage, lemon. $29. Most tasty but, the menu says Wiener, (Veal), and this is Otways Pork. Set that aside, this is a fine, thick schnitzel, pork wonderful, thick, coating cooked properly and not falling away from the meat, fabulous chips, hot, plentiful. Really good pub meal.
• Fish of the day. $37. Cobia is the market fish on this occasion and the smallish tile is cooked perfectly; skin crisp, flesh glistening. Above all the taste doesn’t overwhelm from this piece and makes for easy eating. Watercress salad, fine hot chips, your choice is validated.

SUMMARY 

This version of the Courthouse stacks up very well against its glory days of trading during the mid 2000s. The look is brilliant and the essence of capturing the pub feel is alive and well.

For me, it’s  a bit of a no win situation for the new chums as inevitably it’s a case of compare and contrast to the times that this was the highest rated pub in Melbourne for top quality food and drink.

Personal preference always kicks in so no pots of beer, the schooner is the entry point. I love the option of Carlton D on tap; but very good craft takes its place. The menu too pared back? Yes, back what is served up is better level pub food, sitting comfortably against the best tables of other pubs in Melbourne.

So why is it good? Easy one that: The proper feel of a pub is retained and the verdict of the public is in. On a recent bitterly cold Tuesday night, no specials as a come on, the Courthouse, North Melbourne was totally bulging at the seams.

And for the moment this welcome to the ‘hood, shows no signs of abating.

Score: 15/20