Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews the Clare Castle Hotel, Port Melbourne

Clare Castle Hotel

354 Graham Street, Port Melbourne.
9646 4588
www.theclarecastle.com

When? August 12, 2022.

VENUE 

Grand old double storey pub in the sort of back blocks of Port Melbourne is one true stayer of the MeIbourne pub scene with ‘all everything appeal’  that has stood the tests of time, changing demographics and food trends.

For over 40 years it was in the most capable hands of beloved publican Kevin McNamee and oversaw the eclectic bunch of punters who frequently inhabited,  best summed up as “traditional Port”.  (If you couldn’t get served in here it was a walk across the street to the long gone Hibernian).

Five years on and the new chums have not missed a beat based on a recent visit.  Some familiar faces for sure take block in the bar but without making too many changes to the interior, the Clare is firing to a newer cast of pub punters.

The bar, clean and less cluttered still retains its TAB quietly in the corner (No pokies) but has a fresher appeal; the dining room, predominant colour  white has a fireplace providing excellent heat and again without too much of changing things around, stays true to its predecessor.  The tables are beautifully set out and encourage a long lunch/dinner.

An excellent wine lounge/function room is a space for a special occasion, and the finishing touch is a small outdoors/footpath parklet under the verandah completes the picture in the shadows of the Graham St., overpass.

But it is the dining that has moved with the times and a sharp modern menu with traditional pub grub is pitched –  and succeeds – at a higher level.  The pub is known as “Melbourne’s home of the Moreton Bay Bug (MBB) ” (it’s not rhyming slang but certainly could have been), with many variations on this popular crustacean.

With great service to back the hospitality up, the Clare Castle, Port melbourne remains one of our most bankable pubs.

FOOD/DRINK

One menu throughout and is priced higher but there’s a quality befitting  the extra spend.

Prawn and Vegetable Spring Rolls, Grilled Halloumi, and 3 variations of MBB make up an extensive entree list.

Eight steak and a raft of pub classics including Lamb Shank, (singular) fully plated ($29) or Old fashioned Crumbed Lamb Cutlets (full whack and mint jelly) come  in at $34.  MBBs appear as standalone or extras on a further 7 dishes.  The pub burger is $26, Chicken Schnitty from 26.  Five desserts round out this extensive menu.

Excellent options for beer and wines.  Heavily leaning CUB portfolio the CarltonD is $6/pot (yep!) but fine work from Moon Dog, (their Old Mate Pale ia ripper) is showcased in number.  D’Arenburg “Footbolt”  Shiraz (56/btle) was a fair price to pay for this sturdy veteran.

As for the wine list?  Pages and pages to suit budgets and palates, with a number of Penfolds Bins.

• Entrees – $14
• Mains – $28 (steaks higher from 38)
• Desserts – $14

Tried was;

• Moreton Bay Bug Slider, sriracha, pickled onion, coriander. $14. Good size slider, pieces of fresh bug working well with the condiments, is a tasty start (cut in half was sufficient) and  we are at the ‘Home of the Moreton Bay Bug’.
• Rissoles, Mash, Peas, Onion Gravy. $25. (add $3 for bacon). Nice to see them back on pub menus; the offer from the CC was very good and plentiful.
• Eye fillet beef satay skewers. $36. (2 skewers). Very good. Plenty of top notch eye fillet (at least 200gs), arrive with a hot peanut sauce (it was), cucumber salad, turkish bread, pickled onion. A genuine share plate, so well presented.

SUMMARY 

Ticking over so well is the Clare Castle and while you would think it’s a no brainer here, the amount of businesses – especially hospitality – who suffer from “Next Person In” syndrome is numerous and suffer by comparison.

To win the hearts and minds of the old brigade while building an envied reputation with new punters is achieved here. It is not easily done.

But the echoes of the past can still be heard throughout the bar.  There was a heated discussion about matters on the wharf from the locals and it seems that both parties – Corrigans, the employers and the MUA, their union, were letting everyone down and are to balme for something.  Surely, team,  one or the other?!!

And as for the pub’s title of  “Melbourne’s Home of the Moreton Bay Bug? You be the judge if that’s catchy.

Score: 15.3/20