Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews Stamford Inn, Rowville
1200 Stud Rd, Rowville
Phone: 9764 4488
When? 13 October 2023
thestamford.com.au
VENUE
Big pub in the (not so) outer south eastern suburb of Rowville, the Stamford Inn casts a large shadow on the very busy Stud/Wellington roads corner.
Part of the massive portfolio of pubs under the ALH banner, the Stamford runs to the form card so often writ large about big pubs in the ‘burbs.
So in the words of Morrissey/Marr, ‘Stop me if you’ve heard this one before’;
The Stamford has a big public bar, big area for the horses all located on ground/car park level, then elevated to a grand entrance, there is a massive dining area with galley exposed, big area for the pokies, big area for all sorts of entertainment, plenty of UFC/ major sport on the TVs, whilst outside there is a monstrous Dan Murphy’s servicing the suburb.
You have probably been to an exact pub replica, just in another suburb. The point of difference is one to like here: The Stamford has an area called the Grillhouse where a higher level of menu, including six cuts of steak is offered (Sundays).
A busy crew works the floor, slightly more mature, and it all adds up to a safe, yet predictable offer. Order at the bar or kitchen and is cheerfully brought to your table.
Nothing wrong with this: Like so many of its brethren, it is what it is.
FOOD/DRINK
Wide selection in the three main categories, with favourites like S&P Squid (19), Spicy Chicken Wings (12/$19), being the main attractions from the starters.
Mains plough familiar territory with burgers/sandwiches in the low $20 range, parmas, fish and chips higher $20 range, with steaks starting from $32 for a 300g rump up to $46 for a 300g, scotch fillet, fully plated, with a sauce.
Always happy to see a range of specials forming part of the offer and more power to Stamford having a special of Moreton Bay Bugs ($38).
Beer is well served, clean taste (6.8/pot), for Carlton D while popular brands, e.g., Squealing Pig, Brown Brothers, Yalumba are available on the wine menu. Oakridge ‘Over the Shoulder’ Pinot N was tried. Very fair buying at $11pg.
The average prices are:
- Entrees – $16
- Mains – $28
- Desserts – $12
Tried was;
- Entree: Pork belly bites, sweet chilli, plum glaze. $19. Good start. A big, biting mess of pork arrives, right heat and sweetness, meaty. Good and simple entree, executed well in a very generous serve
- Main: Peri peri chicken burger, C&S. $23. Generous plate, but the bird had been left over the grill and had dried out. Pity as the flavour was strong. A minute or so less and it’s a different result
- Main: Roast of the day. Pork $22 (Less for seniors). Plenty of pork (loin), pumpkin, broccoli, and a strange looking mess of ‘roast potatoes’. Suspect they are brought in to resemble the real thing, but are a little way off the real thing. It was ok.
- Dessert: Apple cronut. $12. A hybrid dessert of a croissant and an apple custard filling. Best described as mostly cro: not much nut.
SUMMARY
The Stamford Inn services a large population where pub options basically amount to one to every one/two suburbs. It is unfair to dismiss them because of location and lack of intimacy to the customer due to size. The pejorative ‘Barn’ is applied to venues such as.
It is straightforward pub grub: no more no less. Attention to detail is a reasonable criticism to any pub and with a much overcooked main arrives, or the salad garnish adds nothing due to age, then this can be addressed before it gets to the customer.
An amusing sidelight occurred here. On requesting a ‘ doggy bag’ for the Pork, a polite reply came in the form of.., ‘ we don’t have approval for that’. Good answer because a venue can, ( it’s not against the relevant food act), but maybe they don’t wish to! Or have approval from higher up!!
The Stamford Inn : It is what it is.
SCORE: 12.5/20