Pub of the Week: Tony Leonard reviews Goldys! Tavern

Goldys! Tavern

66A Gold Street, Collingwood.
9551 8244
www.goldystavern.com.au

When? March 25, 2022.

VENUE

It has been some years since the much loved publicans Glenn and Wilhelmina departed the Leinster Arms, a pub of historical significance in the City of Yarra.

Beautiful old world brick, only single storey pub in the area, home to Mark Brandon Read etc, fears were that this pub would/could be transformed into  something far removed from its original purpose. It is located in a quiet, tranquil street in Collingwood between Wellington and the freeway is significant to its attractiveness.

Can’t be sure how many have tried in the intervening period, but to the new ‘Guvnors’, well done. This pub is firing along very neatly.

Now known as Goldys!, the pub has made a few changes, the best being a new beer garden/dining area to the side of the pub where a former storage area once was.(Basically somewhere to dump stuff).

The public bar is charming, small, squarish, with a pool table. It is supported by an old style small bar, servicing it and the passing parade heading out to one of two dining areas. Little rooms spear off to the side of the main corridor.

The pub was always regarded as a haven for those who loved carefully made, big plates of food, with a leaning to  both Italy and Hungary. The tap beer was not confined to just Carlton D back then. Again our new hosts have gone slightly different in food and bev, but in a such a way, that you will be engaged with the offer.

And in doing so have created their own signature dish: tribute to an Australian Icon.

 So the  bravest thing undertaken was to create its own identity. Definitely younger in feel and crowd, Goldys! made sure that the regulars were not alienated. ( How many times have you heard.  ‘ the pubs not the same’).

The barflys are partly right: It’s not the same, it’s better.

FOOD/DRINK

Genuine, different take on pub grub makes for an interesting read before choosing something from a tight menu. (10 entrees, 8 main, 1 dessert (Sticky date).

Kangaroo Tartare, red cabbage, yolk, chippies (19), Mussel Toast, fennel aioli, botarga (16) doesn’t appear that often in the ‘Smalls’. Taramasalata, flatbread ( if you up for a dip) is $12, along with the ever present Saganaki, this one coming with blistered grapes, parsley crisps (16).

‘Bigs’ has the regular suspects but with little twists to set them apart from your standard. Vegan options include Cauliflower Steak, leek purée, chermoula, chippies (27) or Vegan ‘cheezeburger’ (26). Flank steak, horseradish, lettuce, pickled shallot salad, tops the menu at $36.

Clever from the pub to retain Carlton D on tap, but support it with smaller, independent brews such as Future Mountain White Ale (Reservoir), Bodriggy IPA (Abbotsford), Stomping GroundPale (Collingwood).

The wine list reflects the eclectic tastes of the pub, with different varietals from smaller producers, e.g., Mimim Fiano (Mildura), Payton and Jones Sangiovese from the Yarra Valley. Excellent taste was the Pinot Noir from Supernatural (Tasmania), $15pg.

Average Prices:

Entrees:  $15

Mains:     $28

Dessert:   $12

Tried was;

• Goldys! Roll. $14. The pubs take on the Chiko, thick casing (similar to a Tortilla), full of meat and vegetables, it looks like, tastes like, the real thing. Arrives in the distinctive Chiko bag, red/white colours of the club.  Pub’s signature dish and good on them.
• Fancy Fish n Chips. $34. Panko crumbed or Grilled (later chosen).Two good sized Flathead fillets, supported by mixed pickles, chippies (well done for doing them from scratch), piccata (lemon juice, white wine,  caper sauce). Stack to like about the dish, alas chips made a little soggy from the sauce covering them (not fatal though ). All pubs should offer a choice of grilled or fried fish . I wonder why not?
• $27.  Monstrous panko crumb Chicken fillet, 3 cheeses, chips (these ones crisp and salty), fresh salad.  Normally don’t order this pub staple but Goldys! was very, very, good.

Summary 

The new owners have taken on the poisoned chalice of running a much loved pub – Leinster Arms – and then convince the locals to join in for the long run.

This has been achieved in spades. There was a big, boisterous, young crowd in on a recent Sunday and the great intangible of a pub – Community welcome – meant that was at least 3 gatherings enjoying  a Sunday afternoon together.

(To the couple who thought it would be oh so Collingwood cool to start vaping in the beer garden while people were eating, be assured you jerks, it wasn’t. There’s plenty of space out in the street ).

Foods good, music great, vibe is spot on, Goldys!  have done something elusive to achieve: Hang on to the faithful, win over some new chums.

SCORE:  14.4/20