Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews Captain Melville, CBD

Captain Melville

34 Franklin Street, Melbourne.
9663 6855

When? July 20, 2023.
www.captainmelville.com.au

VENUE

What a grand stayer in Melbourne’s CBD pub life is Captain Melville, trading (seemingly) forever as Mac’s Hotel until 10 or so years ago.

In the shadows of the old TAA/Ansett ANA Hqs, located on Franklin Street, (whose infrastructure work in this street has been continuing since Macs opened around 1850), this glorious heritage listed double storey bluestone hotel, retains its soul as a traditional pub but with many, many modern parts.

Walking in,  the concrete front bar hits you immediately. To the left and right comfortable and private booths allow smaller groups to gather.  Through the backlane another brilliant bar for eating and socialising, a private indoor courtyard for functions,  and upstairs “The Loch and Key” provides a birds eye view of the passing parade below.   Another area, The Loft, is beautifully set out for a private dinner or gathering.

Captain Melville, (so named after a miscreant deported from England, sent to Van Diemans), backs this up with a fine delivery of pub hospitality.   Food is sharp and on point, the wine list is interesting, and is priced right.

Pubs in the CBD are not as numerous as they were some 10–15 years ago (going past the Great Western in King St., brings an old public servant to tears), so it is easy to overlook them as an option.

Captain Melville is easily up with the best in town.  A very safe bet to head to for any occasion.

FOOD/DRINK

Nice touches, Asian inspired, complement a smallish menu, with 6 entrees, a dozen mains and a couple of desserts. (Tip: Go the Brulee, $11, white choc, brittle top).

Entrees are breads and salads, Naan w/eggplant chutney (7), with a feature being Malay curried Fried chicken ribs, crisp curry leaf. ($21).  Mains are priced mid-high $20s; Rigatoni, Lamb Ragu (24), Indonesian Jackfruit curry (23), Sweet/Sour Pork (23). Flathead Tails, full plate (28), Chicken Parma (28) for those preferring the road more travelled.

Beer taps support independents, Gage Rd, Colonial, Brick Lane. Hawker at $6/pot tried. A miss here as while the beer tasted fine, it was served basically flat. (GLassware issue?).  Only downside.  Glass of wine is around $12-13, from producers such as Cloudstreet, Red Claw, Fat Bastard. Excellent Malbec from La Boca Las Calles (15pg) was tried.

The average prices are;

• Entrees – $12
• Mains – $25 (steaks higher from $35)
• Dessert – $11

Tried was;

• Empanadas. (2). $14. One of the go to starters on any menu this year.  With the look and texture of a smaller pastie, the empanadas consist of Bean/Corn/Cheese, Corn Puree, are rich, filling and have a deceptively neat kick to them. Very good,
• Captain Melville Burger. $26. Double angus Patty, double bacon, double cheese, egg, ketchup, pickles, chips. A brilliant burger, tightly packed, excellent pub price, support cast bang on. There’s a single version of this for $20, but……..…
• Chicken Schnitzel $26.  Coming with potato salad, apple, mustard mayo, a generously sized fillet arrives, perfectly cooked. Moist, filling, golden brown, great salad, this version is a beauty.

SUMMARY

Pleasant way to pass an hour or two in Melbourne is to recall the many that traded here (and you have been to) over the years, which invariably leads to the oldest, continuous trading pub. Among the contenders are the Mitre Tavern, Y&Js and the Duke of Wellington.

But a pub that should always be in the conversation is Todays POTW, Captain Melville. This is a brilliant throwback to eras past, but smart hands has seen it transition from Macs to be a fine example of what can be offered.

Maybe it is slightly out of the way in Franklin Street; its oldest cousin the Oxford (Scholar) in Swanston St remains nearby, but these pubs are of our history and are beloved.

The Captain is still going strong after 160 years.

SCORE: 14.6/20