Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews All Nations Hotel, Richmond
64 Lennox St Richmond
Phone: 9428 1564
When? 29 September 2023
www.allnationshotel.pub
VENUE
The old exterior, half height burnt red tiles, dark colours painted on the walls, smallish in size in the shadows of the high rise flats in Lennox St, the All Nations hasn’t changed much over its long journey.
Inside too, the crimson, sturdy pub carpet, small horseshoe bar, timber panelling has been home to tens of thousand footy supporters may be in need of an update to newbies, given the gentrification of inner suburbs and the desirability to have 3121 as your postcode.
Dimly lit “Snug”, slightly set furtively away from the bar is home to many private conversations and to the rear, an old school beer garden, with retractable roof is, well, traditional. Ditto the restrooms. Very traditional!
Best of all: Nothing needs to change here. And woe betide anyone who thinks it should.
Trading all day, every day, long hours, the All Nations is a genuine meeting place for both blue and white collars, to talk racing, footy, politics or in the separate old dining room (seats 40), matters of greater importance or celebrations of family life.
The pub menu may have been enshrined on the walls of the Pyramid of Giza; all favorites are here and fairly priced. Specials are neatly set out on blackboards. Wine again takes a similar course in pricing and varietals.
All under the watch of Bob O’Kane, long time publican and ‘go to man’ if a pub business is failing. Example #1 is what he has done with this pub in the backstreets of Richmond to keep it trading successfully. Smart too, with a courtesy bus to and from the MCG as a value add offer (The pub has a secret rat run to avoid the traffic!).
Day or night, very much like the beloved Emerald in South Melbourne, a real pub with a loyal following takes refuge and comfort here. Plenty of mid-week specials here and they won’t go short in spite of the saving.
Long may the All Nations be part of Melbourne’s Pub scene.
FOOD/DRINK
Tacos, Arancini, Meatballs, Chicken Wings, Duck Spring Rolls form the greater part of Entrees. Always tasty, always generous.
The pub mains may well have been substituted for the words of Billy Joel’s list song ‘We didn’t start the fire’.
Fish and Chips (John Dory $27.90), Bangers and Mask (Pork/Fennel $25.9), Beef/Guinness Pie, Mash, Gravy, Peas ($25.90), Chicken Parma (full plate $26.90), Seafood Linguine ($29.90). Comfortable pub food in any weather.
Beer is excellent. And yes the All Nations serves in 7oz/200ml glasses for a more elegant sip, rather than being forced by some hoteliers to kick off with a schooner! (What about responsible service of alcohol, please!!!). Carlton Draught, perfectly poured into a properly looked after receptacle.
Wine list covers all bases, $12pg//48/btle will secure tried and true labels like Paulettes, Scotchman Hill, Vasse Felix.
The average prices are;
- Entrees – $17
- Mains – $27 (steaks higher)
- Dessert – $14
Tried was;
- Spicy wagyu meatballs. $18.90. Genuine kick to these moist meatballs. Gran Padano is liberally sprinkled on top, the heat from the tomato sugo is sharp but doesn’t overpower, crusty bread mops it all up, Good dish to share.
- Three cheese arancini $17.90. The oversized (good) arancini delivers a real cheesy hot filling, with a sweet relish and chipotle mayo for some different flavors to dip into. Solid offerings.
- Beef and Guinness pie. $25.90. Proper pie fully encased, ripper mash, plentiful peas, rich, rich gravy. Magnificent pub eating during this cold snap in Melbourne, which was preceded by an unseasonal hot spell, preceded by… etc. It’s a Melbourne dish for all of our weather.
SUMMARY
Small history reflection. The All Nations was a real trailblazer in the early ’90s, deciding to go upmarket (by pub standards) in its food offer. It won acclaim, not only for its left of center thinking (it’s hardly glamorous here) but the food was bang on. Magnificent pub chefs like Peter McLeod (Spencer Hotel 1996), and Craig McVean (Metropolitan 2001) plied their trade successfully in other venues.
It was a brave business move but was a catalyst in all pubs raising their games to what we know today.
Despite some rocky times, the All Nations has survived. It is a wonderful, true to its roots pub (Shamelessly the pub painted its front doors black and white for the GF! And in Tigerland too!!).
Go there, enjoy some fine pub hospitality.
The All Nations genuinely falls into Iconic status in the life of Melbourne pubs.
SCORE: 15/20