Pub of the Week: The Wild Geese Hotel, Brunswick
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The Wild Geese Hotel
29 Sydney Rd, Brunswick
Phone: 9969 2454
VENUE:
In another iteration of what was the Sarah Sands/Bridie O’Reilly’s, the iconic Celtic Club of Melbourne (CCM) has taken block at this Melbourne Pub to set up their new headquarters.
A tiny bit of history here. The CCM is/was renowned for its building on the corner of Queen/LaTrobe Streets, for many years for locals and expats to gather, socialise and enjoy the craic. The aim of the CCM is simply to honour Irish heritage and culture whilst embracing all people.
It seemed strange that around 15 years ago, the CCM explored other options away from the CBD location, but after stints at the Metropolitan Hotel North Melbourne and Limerick Arms South Melbourne, have ended here at the old Sarah having acquired the pub from the behemoth AVC group.
Set over two floors, upstairs for the members with a number of function rooms, the pub is really pretty downstairs. Royal blue colours set the tone, carpet of bright blue/green squares, very neatly set tables of cutlery/napery with the bar set slightly off centre displaying an excellent range of beverages.
Best thing: stand around and enjoy with enough space to spread out. In spite of a makeover from its previous landlords, a touch here and there makes it modern and desirable.
Unashamedly it’s all things Irish, with the cultural side well served with Irish dancing classes, music sessions, story telling. The ‘Aussie’ pub side of things embraces happy hour, steak night ($30, full whack), pie night (Thursdays).
From the menus, the food is modern without the twee Irishness being over done, the wines fairly priced, but the showstopper is the breadth of Irish whiskeys from all counties being offered over many, many, pages including one honouring one of Ireland’s greatest modern bands, The Pogues from County Cork.
Pokies: No
TAB: No
Starters include Irish flatbreads, the pick of which is topped w/black pudding, roasted onion, goats curd ($18), pigs in blankets, (sausage rolls) , red ale reduction, crispy sage, ($19), asparagus, leek, cashel blue tartlet, beetroot purée, balsamic ($20).
Mains are broken into two lists – bistro favourites/ pub classics. From the former, Humpty Doo Barra (the best), black garlic, pomme mash, baby clams, chicken skin, white wine veloute ($39) with some cooking skill there.
From the classics, beef burger, Irish cheddar, pickles, tomato relish, chips ($29), but also Irish sausages, fish and chips, steak sanga available. A wonderful Irish stew, ($30), full whack of soft and succulent mash and vegetables was better level with shoulder being the cut used. (Note 10 per cent surcharge Sundays/15 per cent on public holidays)
A couple of dining highlights were;
● Port Phillip Bay scallops, black pudding, cauliflower cream, capers, muscatel butter. $26 entree. This was a genuine value starter making a great share, and given price of shellfish. Cooking spot on, great mix of flavours, it was a fine dish.
● Roast of the Day. ($32). Rolled turkey w/apricot. All proper roasted vegetables with a generous Yorkie to mop it all up. Stands up well against most Sunday Pub Roasts.
But the best was a brilliant pint of Guinness, ($14). Normally I eschew pints, but this one had the deepest of flavours, a wonderful caramel head, with ‘Cheers’ somehow inscribed on the top, and lasted till the last drop.
And so the Celtic Club has found a new home, this one looking to be long term. And for a modest $50 p.a, join the Celtic Club and enjoy great discounts and benefits on everything here.
And the term the Wild Geese? Historically it had military connotations with Irish fighters heading to Europe, but now it is a reference to emigres who depart their shores and the Irish stories overseas.
In Australia, this is an unflattering reference to punters who bet on credit with bookmakers, and like Wild Geese, never settle!
Most enjoyable times at the Wild Gesse Hotel, Brunswick.
Score: 14.5