Pub Of The Week: The Prince Hotel, St Kilda
2 Acland Street, St Kilda.
9536 1111
When?: May 3 2024
SUMMARY
The Prince (of Wales) Hotel is a brilliant fixture on the corner of Fitzroy/Acland Streets, St Kilda, an iconic hotel comprising of many parts. There’s the legendary Prince Bandroom, a shrine to loud late nights of brilliant live music and enjoying the status of The Corner in Richmond.
The Prince dining room, higher end eating in a sublime space slightly away from the clatter and bang. The honour roll of chefs that took block here is impressive.
Prince wine room, Prince decking, accomodation give extra breadth to the site, but it is the Prince public bar, today’s focus and it is very good.
Just stand out the front and admire the art-deco stylings of a pub that has been secret to many tall tales. The tables on the street are well taken with humans and canines sharing the space cordially.
From the street it’s walk in to be met by a low, oblong, sunk bar going 15 to the dozen on a busy Sunday afternoon. Stand around or grab a stool, and socialise; this is a true democratic front bar. Taps of many colours await your choice from CD, Wolf of the Willows, Kaiju, Stomping Ground to name but a few.
The tiles/concrete floors are a throwback to an age well passed, a large fireplace awaits the chill to make you feel more welcome. You are in a pub.
The bistro stands next to bar (seats 50 ish) without obstruction, the only difference is table service is provided at no extra.
In there, with interesting prints hanging from the walls, is the exposed kitchen, doing clever, better pub grub. Covering a ton of bases, all with its special touches to elevate from the norm.
Pokies: No
TAB: No
The Prince public bar has one absolute winner: A head of the room. With such colour, and movement ever present to have one staff member working all of the room, keeping the punters in touch where their drinks/meals are at, or directing younger staff to attend to matters hospitality, very few pubs provide someone to just be in charge.
It is so welcome.
Two standout were tried:
- Chargrilled calamari, (entree), romesco, fermented lemon. $22. There was a good share here. The Calamari, liberated from batter, had a magnificent, fresh, char flavour, the cool romesco working in harmony, with the lemon flavour deep and rich,
- Roast of the day. $38. Ok, this is on the higher side of this Sunday favourite. Be assured it is well worth it. Peppered scotch fillet, four slices served rare, is paired with roasted potatoes, green beans, beetroot salad (two types), horseradish cream, red onion and a yorkshire pudding , the size of a christmas plum pudding. Absolutely worth it.
Most mains will fall in a $28-33 range, come fully plated and said earlier are better level than similar offerings.
Given The Prince’s famed wine room, the choice here in public bar is extensive, with Mitchelton from Nagambie well represented as first pour. $13-14 pg is the mean. Whatever varietal, the likelihood it is covered by their list 25 red/whites.
Recently, the Prince has been put up for sale, no doubt the Ryan Family having enjoyed their time as Guv’nors of this Melbourne Icon. To the new chums, good luck and for some gratuitous advice, don’t change too much here.
The Prince is a ripper.
Score: 15.5