Pub Of The Week: The Duke of Wellington, Melbourne
2/146 Flinders Street, Melbourne
9810 0066
When: 31 May 2024
Summary:
Although fraught with danger declaring this about any business in hospitality in 2024, if there is one pub/restaurant/cafe in Melbourne that is bombproof and bankable, it is the Duke of Wellington.
Perched on the prominent corner of Flinders/Russell, next to the wonderful Forum theatre, the Duke tends to be the meeting spot in Melbourne pre footy and most activities in that precinct.
Set over three main levels, the front bar is a Kaleidoscopic mish-mash of footy colours on weekends and generating its own buzz. Typical of many front bars, the Duke has a genuine welcome and ‘lived in’ feel to it.
The second Level is Dining Room/Cocktail Bar, obviously more sedate but with lovely prints on the heritage painted walls, this is a great place to relax and socialise. Circular booths and elevated bench seating dominates.
Level three is a modern rooftop bar, overlooking Flinders and the railyards beyond, it is well set out, and perfect for a function. Looks fabulous.
Pokies: No
TAB: No
The Duke has come a long way since legendary footballer Brian ‘The Whale’ Roberts was custodian, but in the hands of hospitality giant AVC, there is little to concern the lovers of this iconic place in our history whose licence to serve dates around 1853.
Save for one. For me. And I don’t like it. More later.
Food and drink is priced to the mark here, but given its location, you have to make that allowance. Starters include pork and fennel sausage rolls, ($23), S&P Calamari, ($21) and for a pregame nibble bowl of fries ($14).
Most mains fall somewhere in the $30 plus range, e.g., Cumberland sausages, mash, beans gravy ($32), chicken parma, chips, leaf salad ($32), beer battered rockling burger ($31). Tried was the cheeseburger (29), with pickles, lettuce, burger sauce. No issues.
The entry level for Beer is a schooner. (No pots). $11.20 for a CD, Furphy (11.20), Little Creatures Pale (12.70).
Wine per glass averages at $14pg., for Paloma Riesling, Ant Moore PG, Scotchman Hill Chard. All are good options.
A couple of highlights were;
- Crispy halloumi, date chutney, Warrnambool honey. $19. Big starter, five largish nuggets of cheese, work so well worth the savoury and sweet accompaniments to the point where this is almost a main in itself. Good starter
- Lamb shoulder pie, mash, celeriac, mushy peas. $31. Proper pie, big fillings, very nice flavours throughout. Cold evening made for fine eating.
So what’s the issue here that burns so much? It is the Duke (and there are a few others) that start service at a schooner for beer, 425 mls. It clearly eludes how pubs can loudly and self righteously proclaim ‘responsible serving’ when the receptacle is 50 per cent more than a pot (285ml).
If you love a beer, the axiom of you drink a pint as quickly as a schooner as quickly as a pot kicks in. How can that be responsible? This is nothing more than grabbing as much cash from the punter as possible in every transaction.
To be fair this is not the case in every AVC pub, and their reputation is excellent. (Auburn, College Lawn, Garden State, Espy). They are a massive player on our pub hospitality scene.
So back to the start of this review. The Duke is popular, the staff friendly (the older security guard is as good as you could find on a recent Sunday night), and the food and bev is fine.
Just don’t ask for a pot.
Score: 13.5