Pub of the Week: The Cricketers, Port Melbourne
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The Cricketers
Where: 69 Cruikshank St, Port Melbourne
Phone: 9326 2586
Website: https://www.cricketersportmelbourne.au/
SCORE: 16/20
FEBRUARY 15
VENUE: Not too many venues boast a second reference, but the Cricketers in Port Melbourne has been fondly referred to as the ‘The Hole in the Wall’.
Its backstreet location makes this the rarest of beasts in Melbourne pub life, such anonymity long replaced by units. And as endearing as this moniker is, it can be a drawback as the Cricketers has had a checkered trading history with many aliases for reasons that escape me. (The House of Food and Wine being one such).
And to the present: This is as good an iteration of the Cricketers as I can recall. The pub, so small with townhouse appearance, has had a deceptively brilliant facelift.
The front bar, moved from right side to left, has somehow opened up this snug, intimate space. Hallway divides and has 2 rooms for dining, with the glorious courtyard now fully paved and enclosed.
For such a seemingly small pub, any sized function/gathering would be brilliantly accommodated.
For all the aesthetics, the basics of running a pub, summed up as hospitality, are all here. Food, wine, beer, service, community come from the get go with a welcome from the front bar to set you up.
Food menu offers pub different but reasonably priced; the identical comment is applied to the wine list. (Quibble: The website offers no clear indication of what’s available due to constant change. Personal preference is for it to be displayed).
The steak night, $28, black angus 300g porterhouse, Wednesdays, has been going for a short time and the response has been outstanding.
Tap beer offers all popular brands. Carlton D, ($7/pot), along with Stone & Wood, Guinness, Great Northern. Monday – Friday, 4-6pm, $5 pots.
Wine list is neatly crafted and pricing is so fair. The per glass is $13.5 (average) and again one of the best value whites – Chrismont Riesling – is offered at $11 per glass.
HIGHLIGHTS:
– Cumberland sausage scotch egg ($14) truffle mayonnaise, petit herbs. As 2024, was the year for meats/seafood to be skewered, this year is shopping up as the year of the scotch egg.
Suspect variations of this British pub dish will be served, but assured the one here was a ripper.
– Traditional fettucine carbonara ($33), pancetta, egg yolk, pangrattato, parsley, parmesan. Not sure this is “traditional” with a yolk and fried breadcrumbs but it works. Rich, serves two easily, and popular.
Something Different to Eat: Sundae $14. Vanilla bean ice cream, pretzels, fruit loops, honeycomb, marshmallow, chocolate sauce.
Yep, fruit loops. A staple of the menu so it must work.
Surcharges: None e.g. cards/weekends listed (Feb 25).
Also: Pokies: No; Tab: No; Foxtel: Yes
Summary: The Cricketers, under the guidance of Steve from the Limerick, is flying. Every element is to be enjoyed.
The changes to the interior have elevated this pub to a status of one of the best in the most competitive areas for pubs in Victoria.
If you love a pub, make this a must do this year.