Pub Of The Week: Lord Newry Hotel, Fitzroy
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Lord Newry Hotel
543 Brunswick St, Fitzroy
Phone: 9481 3931
23 November, 2024
At least 15 years have passed since a last visit, and nothing has changed. Not a thing. Everything, like Walt Disney, is cryogenically frozen. From when? Who knows. Future? Doubt it will.
And that is wonderful!
From the fading grey-ish exterior with the beautiful, but equally fading emerald green tiles, the Lord Newry proudly and defiantly stands.
From the old public bar, fireplaces strategically placed with old couches nearby, perimeter tables and stools to dine, a neat blackboard listing the bill of fare (love that), all supported by old sturdy pub carpet which could be picked up in one piece by a pair of tweezers.
A dimly lit pool room sits away from the main action so as not to intrude, a 80s arcade game completes another old world picture. The upstairs lounge, neater and a bit more modern is a fine palace for a function/private party.
Tables and chairs in the sedate Newry St, allow for a quiet reflection on life in any weather.
Pokies: No
TAB: No
The menus, food and drink are sparse and uncluttered. Nice touches everywhere, from the snacks, where its southern fried chicken pieces, or Korean cauliflower bites (18/16), a choice of three pizza; pepperoni, margherita, mushroom (17/18), three burgers, chicken/beef/vegan, $24, and a few mains (around seven in all).
Seriously, that’s about it! But it must work, given the popularity inside and outside the pub.
Throughout the week parmas and burgers are reduced to under $20. Wine averages around $11-12/glass from reputable suppliers like DemBortoli, Rob Dolan and Chrismont.
The latter’s Riesling is still one of the best value bang for buck varietals anywhere.
Highlights: Entree: Aged cheddar jalapeno croquettes ($16). Four large homemade croquettes arrive, sweet heat from the jalapenos, real bold flavour from the cheddar. Great combination, beer the perfect company to wash these down (Carlton Draught – $7/pot).
Fish tacos (two/$24), paired with avocado salsa, jalapenos chips. Like the previous, a perfect plate to suit your surrounds.
A real tick from me was the background lunchtime music; very American, very soul, from the 60s. Right level to enjoy while chatting, not so boisterous as to help the staff pass the time, without any consideration to the customers.
The Lord Newry rolls on: not needing to move with the times.
A well used idiom is ‘Less is More”. Truth is, no one really believes it.
Except those at the Lord Newry. This is its calling card from then to eternity.
SCORE: 14