Pub of the Week: Hardimans Hotel, Kensington
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Hardimans Hotel
Where: 521 Macaulay Rd, Kensington
Phone: 9372 2666
Internet: www.hardimans.com.au
SCORE: 15.7/20
FEBRUARY 28
VENUE: Beautiful art deco pub, triangular in shape covering Macaulay Rd and Henry St, Hardimans reflects the changing look and demographic shift that the inner west suburb of Kensington has experienced.
As wonderfully world weary as it looks outside, it is a ripper inside with a range of spaces to relax, modern in look, with that perfect pub feel to them.
Nearly seven years has passed since a previous visit and this is its best incarnation. The centerpiece is the oblong bar, with a massive array of independent taps to choose and an equally encyclopedic range of wines.
A more discreet dining room to the right, (common menu throughout) is well appointed and slightly lower lit. A leafy beer garden to the rear, and another space, upstairs area for dining/functions completes the picture.
Monday to Thursday, a meal deal awaits; Fridays a three hour happy hour to prepare for the footy, Hardimans easily straddles the line of a place for fine pub food and drink, while space allows the bar/courtyard to have those looking for a communal catch up.
Best of all, it’s not overdone.
Food menu is elevated pub favourites, all priced within what is easily expected price range for each of its four categories; entrees (around 10), pub classics (6), grill (3), pizza (10).
Quick look confirms this, with the good sized entree of squid, plated with snake beans, green chilli, vadouvan salt, pickled lime aioli ($21), or a main, casareece, cape york prawns, white zucchini, bottarga, salmon caviar ($36).
The Corner Inlet flathead, chips, minted peas, curry sauce (yep and works), tartare was offered grilled or fried ($38). Former chosen and the two thick fillets tasted superb.
Twenty one taps of beer highlight some of the prominent indie brewers of Melbourne e.g, Wolf of the Willows, CBCo, Mountain Culture Hazy (tried and very good). Notably not a commercial tap of Carlton D, or Lion Nathan.
For a small pub, the wine list is massively extensive, across 25 pages. This is astonishing, so all styles and budgets catered.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
– Entree of halloumi, figs, honey, za’atar. Generous with cheese (4/$16), sufficiently cooked to leave a bit of give, the combination of flavors elevates this popular dish times again.
-Cape Grim (250g) porterhouse, grass fed, fully plated, honey mustard vinaigrette, peppercorn sauce, $39 (note Thursdays are steak night). Just a perfect amount of one of Australia’s best suppliers of beef.
Something Different to Eat: Beef rendang spring rolls (3/$18) are plated with gem lettuce, sambal, spicy green mango pickle. Along with a proliferation of scotch eggs, the swiss army knife of pub food for 2025 is the spring roll.
If it can go in, then let’s try it!!!
Surcharges: 15 per cent public holidays, no charge on cards.
Also: Pokies: No; Tab: No; Foxtel: Yes
Summary: Historical reminder that cyclone wire covered the windows in the pub around 25 years ago when Irene and Lisa were the custodians (and did an excellent job).
Now newly renovated (times over), Hardimans makes an offer the equal, if not better, than the beloved houses in Fitzroy.
On its home page, a comment is highlighted Hardimans up perfectly; “Pub done well”.
Spot on.