Jacqui Felgate reviews: Yugen — the old Q-bar transformed into ‘a new kind of cool’

I’m probably showing my age but remember Q-bar? That Chapel Street institution frequented by footballers, celebrities and Melbourne’s party set?

Nearly two decades on it’s a new kind of cool — transformed into Yugen, a hip new Asian fusion venue that will take your breath away.

For a little bit of nostalgia off the bat, the Yugen playlist has been created by one of the original DJs from Q-bar. It’s a vibe.

Yugen is set across the basement of the Capitol apartment building and the fit out is unlike anything you’ve seen in Melbourne. Made up of three parts, a main restaurant, bar and private dining space; a six-seater Omakase; and a private Golden Orb dining suspended from the ceiling.

Alex Yu is one of the most acclaimed sushi chefs in Australia and has been described as a “sashimi florist”.

The sushi sashimi platter on the night we dined included bluefin from Japan and Tasmania, SA kingfish, Scampi from New Zealand, scallops, prawns and Tassie abalone. The abalone was a standout. The prawn toast, Chinese donut and chilli amazu came as four moorish bites, chewy and crispy and the perfect spicy foil to the platter we had just devoured.

Smoked Eel Chawanmushi with brown butter and chicken skin was followed by mains of rich spicy crusted beef and fried rice (one of the best I’ve had) and a delicious silken tofu.

The thing about Yugen is it’s an experience. You head down the stairs into the cavernous basement and it’s like being transported to New York, but it’s still all Melbourne, all cool, and all class.

Pro tip: Try Yugen Tea Bar upstairs for a high tea with a difference.

Yugen Tea Bar
At Capitol Grand – 605 Chapel St, South Yarra
yugenteabar.com.au