Emilia reviews Mexican eatery named one of Melbourne’s best bars

Click PLAY to hear Emilia’s full review on 3AW Breakfast

Named in The Age’s Good Food top 20 bars in Melbourne and Broadsheet’s best new bars of 2023.

Despite the constant flow of traffic on the corner of the Pascoe Vale thoroughfare, the Mexican-inspired bar and diner transports you to Oaxaca, far removed from the intersection of Melville Road and Bell Street. 

Their name, Tobala is a very small agave that can only be grown from seed, made in Oaxaca, Mexico. Bar Tobala’s owners, Melbourne couple, bartender Anthony and his wife Frankie would know about it too – they’ve spent over a decade, for months at a time immersing themselves in Oaxaca. Keeping the traditional flavours they learnt about when spending time there is important to them on the menu. 

Whilst their vision wasn’t initially this, they’ve made the perfect little date spot. Specialty cocktails, neon lights, Mexicana pictures lining the walls, a choice between booths, high tables or bar stools; choose your adventure. In fact, when we arrived there was only one other couple there, canoodling behind the menu like teenagers, so I think we can comfortably say they’ve nailed the ‘date night’ feel. But that’s not their only purpose, tables of friends, girlfriends, old mates, single diners coming in for a drink and a meal flowed in on a Tuesday night. 

I had to try one of their cocktails and I wanted to try something a little different. The Motel Tan starts with a Mezcal foundation (duh), imparting its complex smoky flavour profile, while Yuzushu adds a bright and zesty citrusy note. The addition of Limoncello and passionfruit adds some tanginess, complementing the Mezcal. To top it off, a final dusting of smoky Morita chilli adds a tingle to the lips. Be careful if you’re not a spice lover.

We started with Totopos (which is just a fancy name for corn chips) with the trio which includes guacamole, a fresh salsa verde, and papaya xnipec, featuring papaya, habanero, onion, tomato, and coriander. Always an easy favourite was the Kingfish Tostaditas, featuring sashimi-grade Hiramasa kingfish lightly cured and dressed in a spicy herbed black garlic crema, accompanied by cucumber, watermelon radish, and popcorn shoots, and the Smoked Cheese Balls, where beechwood smoked cheese is enveloped in masa dough, fried to a golden perfection, and served on pinto bean puree with pickled cactus, pequin chilli oil, and herbs. There was a prawn cocktail on the menu as well…I know you boys might’ve chosen that one but I’m trying to fit in what’s coming next…

For the vegetarians, we tried the slow cooked mushroom tamales that’s wrapped inside a savoury masa tamal, with an orangey-red salsa. 

All their tacos were naturally gluten free – the Pollo Verde is chicken cooked in green sauce made from poblano chillies, served with coriander and onion, had to try the Guajillo Short Rib features shredded beef in a rich sauce made from roasted tomatoes, guajillo and mulato chillies, topped with xnipec and pickled onions. But my favourite of the night and this one’s for you, Russel was the specifically garlic and onion free – Baja Fish Taco includes tempura fish served with crunchy lime-soaked cabbage. Perfectly crunchy, not greasy at all. Moreish. Even when I was full I kept going back for more of this fish taco. 

Bar Tobala

237 Melville Rd

Pascoe Vale South