Emilia reviews an inner Melbourne bar with an Italian-inspired menu

Press PLAY to hear Emilia’s FULL review with Ross and Ross 

I’m looking to juice every last minute, beautiful sunset and nights-warm-enough-for-a-rooftop-drink out of this summer. This week I went looking for a rooftop that isn’t already filled by 4:30 on a Thursday but still has the ambience to carry the rooftop flare. Gigi’s rooftop in Thornbury sang to me. Perched above Thornbury with views that make you forget you’re in the middle of Melbourne. Walk-ins only, Gigi’s keeps it casual yet chic, welcoming small groups to drink and nibble above High Street. 

The drinks menu is a celebration of local craftsmanship, featuring beers like 3 Ravens Lager brewed just around the corner in Thornbury, alongside low-intervention wines such as Range Life Pinot Grigio from Victorian makers. The cocktail list goes just as hard with creations like the House Spritz and Joanies, blending refreshing flavors with a touch of sophistication. If you get there before 7pm you’ll get to watch the sunset and cash in on happy hour.

There is a small menu on the rooftop that could easily suffice with a couple of pinsa—a Roman-style pizza, parmigiana bites but the full menu is downstairs…we’ll get there. We did start with the pinsa upstairs whilst we waited for a table downstairs as I made the mistake of not booking, not realising Umberto’s would be so popular on a random Wednesday night. A couple of happy hour cocktails and a pinsa to line my belly kept me more than happy as I enjoyed that beautiful pink sky we got on Wednesday night.

After you’ve had some drinks on the rooftop (and if you’re smarter than me, you’ll have booked downstairs) and maybe some nibbles, head downstairs to Umberto Espresso Bar – it is Thornbury’s homage to classic Italian dining. A cozy spot that feels like stepping into Nonna’s kitchen but with a modern twist. Known for its unpretentious charm and hearty meals, Umberto has built a loyal following among locals and visitors alike.

The menu leans heavily into Italian comfort food. The meal began with small, crisp Arancini and tender Polpette ($18), both bursting with flavor. For mains, the Agnello cutlets ($38) stood out as a simple but effective show of Italian dining, showing meat and three vege from 80s Aussie households how it’s done. That sat alongside the comforting Gnocchi al Pomodoro ($29) and classic Lasagna ($30), each showcasing traditional Italian cooking at its best. No notes but each dish was left clean.

Desserts were equally impressive: the Cannoli ($8) delivered a sweet crunch filled with creamy ricotta, while the Pannacotta was smooth and indulgent—a perfect end to the meal. The service downstairs was impeccable, with attentive staff creating an inviting atmosphere that felt both professional and familial.

In terms of value, Umberto’s menu sits comfortably within Melbourne’s average dining prices but offers exceptional quality for what you pay. With mains ranging from $29-$38 and desserts at $8-$12, it strikes a balance between affordability and premium dining compared to Melbourne’s typical mid-range restaurant pricing. This makes it a standout choice for those seeking authentic Italian fare without breaking the bank.

And the espresso bar element isn’t just for show—the coffee here is exceptional, whether you’re after a morning pick-me-up or an after-dinner espresso. Umberto’s intimate setting means tables fill up quickly, so booking ahead is recommended. The service is attentive without being overbearing, adding to the relaxed vibe that makes this spot so beloved.

Gigi’s and Umberto’s together deliver on all fronts: authentic flavors, cozy ambiance, and a slice of Italy right in Thornbury.

Gigi’s Rooftop and Umberto Espresso Bar downstairs

Level 1 & 2, 917 High St

Thornbury