Emilia reviews an Bulleen Italian institution
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Backdropped against dozens of cranes, bright lights and massive roadworks, the iconic Veneto Club remains one of the only standing community gathering spots left in the area let alone an institution like the Veneto Club. As the world around it changes, preparing and building the North East link The Veneto Club stands tall, fairy lights reminding people that it’s not going anywhere. You might think that the endless road works and the tricky navigation into the carpark would be enough to turn locals off, not for their Veneto club though.
In 1969, approximately 16 acres were purchased in Bulleen. Here the ‘Veneto’ community held family picnics – the men worked, the women fed the families and the children played. It’s such an important part of local immigrants finding a place of belonging, not much has changed in a lot of ways. As we entered we were cheerfully greeted by a receptionist asking if we were here for the “women’s circle”. It was actually the perfect greeting to the club, it illustrated their purpose perfectly.
They’re much more than that too, amongst the many glamorous Italian restaurants around Melbourne not many are as authentic as The Veneto Club. Full of families, those who come for the pokies and stay for dinner, elderly Italian gentlemen enjoying some grappa together and parents waiting for their children to finish soccer on the pitch on the other side of the fence. (Fun fact: This same pitch was where Damian Tardio scored his first goal).
Their menu is traditional but modernised with regional marking on some dishes without it feeling old-fashioned. True to Northern Italy there was lots of polenta that I steered clear of for you, Ross.
I thought I’d stray from tradition for starters, trying the roasted pepper and prosciutto bruschetta, it’s laid on a sourdough toast and worked as a nice alternative to your average bruschetta.
Coming right back to tradition though, the entree meatballs were a stand out of the night. Juicy, still a touch of pink inside, Nonna-approved meatballs.
For pastas we tried both the Tagliatelle Bolognese which was just perfectly done, handmade pasta, balanced flavours in the bolognese- fit for an upmarket in the heart of Carlton. The second pasta was a bigoli pasta. Haven’t heard of it? It’s a Venetian style spaghetti; thick, round noodles that lapped up the tomato based seafood sauce. The seafood was in abundance; mussels, pippis, scallops, prawns, baby octopus. I know Bulleen isn’t the closest to the ocean but make the exception for this one.
Keeping in the regional theme we got the Veneto salad, iceberg lettuce, radicchio and onion and drenched in their illustrious house-made balsamic vinaigrette. So simple but absolutely moreish.
The prices are a little higher than I would have expected at a bistro-like restaurant but knowing the history of The Veneto Club being built by business men and having tasted the food I would happily pay $30 for a pasta here over the next trendy restaurant any day.
Ross knows their Deli at the front well, too. You can take away homemade frozen lasagne, gnocchi, meatballs, etc. Dinner for you family sorted for $35, tell them “Nonna made it”
Bonus fun fact: If you know the area, you know it’s built on a flood plain… Tony Tardio told me a story of floods being so high one day that the gondola that sits out the front once floated all the way down to the Eastern Freeway.
The Veneto Club
191 Bulleen Rd
Bulleen