Emilia reviews a western suburbs staple that’s more than just a pizzeria

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This might be familiar to Westside locals, a staple pizzeria with charm and a proper pizza oven. The custom lettered, neon Harley & Rose arch attracts swarms of trendy locals with their earthy fit out, canvas green blinds and of course the open pizza oven that warms the whole joint. As you’re handed the menu you’ll realise it’s much more than just your local pizzeria, it’s modest but with dishes like warm Sicilian spiced pistachios or fried olives with nduja in their starters you quickly get the idea that there’s prestige in their offering. It’s owned by Josh Murphy and Rory Cowcher, former head chefs at the Builders Arms and Cutler and Co. and that exceptional quality is reflected in all corners of the menu, wine and subsequently the food.

I love finding these little slices of local personality that are the perfect illustration of the suburb they reside. So, what did Harley & Rose tell me about West Footscray? I watched as swarths of trendy groups filled the restaurant; families, groups of mates and the cheeky takeaway order in his pyjamas flew in and out. It’s named after a Black Sorrows song, on Tuesdays they do schnitzels on special, Wednesday’s trivia is back, mulled wine on the menu and you can order their pizza half and half. It feels contemporary and they clearly are rocking but they don’t take themselves too seriously, it’s laid-back and homey; it’s West Footscray mirrored. 

I will admit, I may have underestimated how loved it may be because I rocked up without a booking thinking we’d be fine and there was only outside tables free or a 30 minute wait. The staff were super accommodating sitting us up on the bar for what was only, in the end, a 5 minute wait before finding a table for us.

We ordered the cheapest wine on the menu at the recommendation of our waitress and was pleasantly surprised that it was an Italian Babo Soave from Veneto, it was a nice balance against all the rich flavours. They also operate a take away wine store, selling everything from the wine list. So you can pick up your takeaway and wine in one place, Friday night sorted. 

For strategising in fitting everything in I wouldn’t recommend getting the Rosemary & Smoked Garlic Flatbread (and we added stretched curds) first but for a delicious starting course, I totally would recommend it. As soon as I tasted the flatbread I knew the pizza bases were going to be a winner. You have to try the warm Sicilian spiced pistachios; salty and a little bit crispy start, the warmth brings out the nuttiness. I was told I had to try the Fried Olives Stuffed With Nduja and I have to advise you eat it topped with the fresh pineapple provided all in one bite. Simple, but when done right so effective,  perhaps one of my favourite dishes of the meal, the Parmesan Croquettes doused in Pecorino & with warm dipping honey on the side. I loved the bitey-ness of the parmesan paired with the sweetness. 

I absolutely loved that we could half / half the pizza to be able to try more options. One pizza we tried the Margherita and the broccoli pizza and the other was a special ‘smashed’ pepperoni with smoked bacon and topped with hot honey and the diavola; hot or mild salami, tomato, jalepeno & scamorza. I will say, the meat-based half and half pizza definitely won this round but out of left field, I was a fan of the broccoli pizza. 

I had to try the spiced lamb meatballs with soft polenta, parsley & currant salad and the wood oven roast carrots with rose harissa, pomegranate, feta & mint out of sheer curiosity despite the rapidly tightening space in my belly for any more food. I loved that they weren’t afraid to use Middle Eastern flavours and experiment with particularly side dishes, the roasted carrots were a great example of this. There is a slight spice warning though

Their signature tiramisu was the last thing to try and I couldn’t leave without trying it. Before cutting into it I was already excited because it looked like a sculptural piece of Italian art topped with cocoa powder. The mascarpone layer was so smooth and had a hint of butterscotch flavour to it. Many locals go to Harley & Rose just for their tiramisu and I understand now.

The pizza starts at $20 and the most expensive pizza is $25, which is virtually unheard of in hospitality at the moment. Their starters are all $15 and under, which again, is really well priced for where we’re at currently. The pastas and mains are the only thing on the menu that go above $30 but with ingredients like squid ink linguine that’s still very reasonable. 

If I was from West Footscray I would wear Harley & Rose proudly as a representation of where the suburb is at. A suburb staple that is trendy but still knows their locals well, great wines, superb food that you can share. 

Harley and Rose

572 Barkly St

West Footscray