Emilia reviews a ‘paddock-to-plate’ Italian dining experience in Warrandyte
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Olivigna
54-56 Brumbys Rd
Warrandyte South
Next sunny day, I’ve found the place for you. 40 minutes away and only 25km from the CBD on 20 acres of lush, green land travel to Tuscany with rolling hills of paddocks full of vineyards, live grove, citrus orchard and cows. So, you’ll find it on the cityside outskirts of the Yarra Valley Olivigna on the Pietro Gallus Estate. Creators of estate wine, Italian liqueurs, grappa and fresh Italian dishes. Weather permitting, sit outside at the top of one of their paddocks in their sun drenched courtyard or find a table in their family friendly Italian restaurant overlooking a valley of cows and horses. Heaven is only 10 mins from Templestowe.
Olivigna stands as a testament to the ‘paddock-to-plate’ dining experience. The estate, lovingly managed by John and Anna was filled, on a Sunday afternoon with dates, family gatherings, a 40th birthday and a hens party. Despite all that, their multiple seating areas and great views make sure it doesn’t feel cluttered. Choose from their own wine or choose a cocktail or multiple spritz choices that incorporate their liqueurs. I was sold on a limoncello margarita, as I imagine most people would be on any given sunny Sunday arvo.
The meal began with the Cacio e Pepe Arancini, it was a creative twist on the classic Italian. The cooking technique here was impeccable; the risotto was perfectly cooked, retaining a creamy texture inside while the exterior was golden and crunchy and was covered in a heavy layer of pecorino cheese and freshly ground black pepper. This set the tone for the rest of the meal, showcasing Olivigna’s attention to detail and commitment to traditional Italian flavors.
The Polpo, featuring char-grilled Fremantle octopus, was a highlight of the meal. The octopus was marinated and then grilled over high heat, resulting in a tender and slightly charred texture. It was served atop a refreshing heirloom tomato, lemon thyme, and mint salad. The combination of flavors and textures was outstanding, with the smokiness of the grilled octopus complemented by the bright, citrusy notes of the lemon thyme and mint.
For the main course, I opted for the Pesce, which featured the market fish of the day, barramundi. The fish was cooked to perfection and served with fregola pasta which looks like pearl cous cous but is not. They partnered the fish with charred tomatoes, broccolini, and a rosella onion salad garnished with soft herbs. The fregola was al dente, and the charred tomatoes added a deep, smoky flavor.
The Scialatielli pasta dish was another standout, featuring clams, mussels, king prawns, cherry tomatoes, zucchini, chilli, and herbs. The pasta was thick and as fresh as can be, it lapped up the loose tomato base. I had to google this one, scialatielli is a type of fresh pasta that originates from the Campania region, particularly the Amalfi Coast in Italy. It comes from the Neapolitan dialect, combining “scialare” (to enjoy) and “tiella” (pan). Scialatielli are short, rectangular, and slightly curved, resembling “messy” or “unkempt” hair.
Finally, the Margherita di Buffalo pizza was a classic Italian delight. Made with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, parmesan cheese, and fresh basil. It wouldn’t be proper Italian pizza if it wasn’t wood-fired.
Prices were good for starters, at around $18, cocktails were just over $20 which is average in this cost of living, but I thought the pizza was a little expensive at $30 and mains were around $40. So, not the cheapest pick but sitting right amongst the average prices in hospitality at the moment. You cannot put a price on those views.
Not only can you dine at Olivigna, if you’re as taken with it as I was you can try their salumi class, pasta class, tour their grappa distillery and there’s a limoncello festival this Sunday, 8th December.
Olivigna encapsulates everything you can dream up for a weekend location lunch; local and fresh produce, family owned, good food, thoughtful and delicious alcohol, views for miles and only 40 mins drive away from the CBD. If you, like me, can’t afford to go to a villa in Tuscany, Olivigna fills that gap.