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Emilia reviews a modern Asian gem hidden in Melbourne’s north-east

Ross and Russel
Article image for Emilia reviews a modern Asian gem hidden in Melbourne’s north-east

Click PLAY to hear Emilia’s full review on 3AW Breakfast

You know I’m a sucker for an “only the locals know about this place” kind of establishment, especially when the locals are as loyal to it as it is to them. Stepping through the door at Benjamin’s Kitchen, you’ll find an immediate sense of calm with blue and white lime washed walls, floating clouds for lighting above blonde wood round tables. The decor pays homage to Ernest Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea.

As delightful as the decor is the food. The menu stays true to the core of Asian cuisine while incorporating modern techniques and fresh ingredients. Chef Benjamin Ruan, born and bred in Guangdong, brings his Cantonese heritage to life in a menu that blends traditional and unique flavours. 

Chef Benjamin, who started his culinary journey washing dishes as a teenager, worked his way up to head chef in numerous Asian restaurants across Melbourne. Benjamin’s Kitchen is his third and most successful restaurant, opened in 2015 which means it’s stood in that same location for close to 10 years.

We were led upstairs to their second level where there was more airy decor and spacious tables so you never had to feel cramped or like you were sharing your conversation with your table-neighbours, likely a family celebrating a birthday or two old friends catching up.

It is obvious to me that Benjamin’s understands their clientele, the menu is in a readable font, the lighting isn’t so dark you can hardly find your wine glass and you don’t have to yell over any music, they even have a ‘Business Lunch Set Menu’. 

For starters I had to try some typical Friday night takeaway dishes like their Hawker Satay Chicken Skewers. The chicken was juicy pieces fed one by one onto skewers rather than a long skewers tenderloin like you sometimes get and I had to try the Dim Sum, they were delicate dumplings filled with your choice of assorted, vege, prawn but we had the chicken and water chestnut.

After reading many reviews about Benjamin’s signature Crab Bun it was the first thing on my list to try; crispy soft shell crab in a soft brioche slider-like burger bun with Asian slaw. I loved this as an alternative / take on a bao bun. Their pad thai was traditional, simple and very effective; tangy tamarind-infused rice noodles with chicken and chives.

Their Benjamin’s Green Curry Chicken was a different take on a Thai classic. It was heavy on the herbs blended through the sauce, it almost reminded me of an Indian take on green curry, not dissimilar to a hariyali. If you like a traditionally thin, almost soupy, sweet but spicy green curry you won’t get that here.

Some maverick choices I also made was trying the Heaven Duck which was a roasted duck glazed with hoisin sauce and whiskey, served with pine nuts and wok vegetables and the Mongolian Rump Steak Slices; Tender rump steak slices marinated in Asian spices with oyster mushrooms and Asian greens.

I tried one of their three cocktails on their drinks menu; Discovery/ ‘Begin Again’: A refreshing blend of honey, mint, lime, vodka, and ginger ale. Each dish offers a unique blend of flavours, showcasing the diverse range of pan-Asian cuisine served at Benjamin’s Kitchen.

The cool thing about Benjamin’s location is that Alphington, unassuming as it is is actually really accessible; it’s just off the Eastern freeway, 15 mins from the city but also nestled on the border before the ‘trendy North’ and Ivanhoe but Eltham is only 20 mins away

HOT TIP: Benjamin also recently reopened Greenhart Wine Bar, Camberwell featuring an adapted menu from Benjamin’s Kitchen. 

Benjamin’s Kitchen

758 Heidelberg Rd

Alphington

Ross and Russel
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