Emilia reviews a Filipino restaurant that is just ‘inexplicably Melbourne’

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Serai, a Filipino culinary oasis nestled in Melbourne’s culinary landscape, has swiftly become a beacon for those seeking a unique and modern twist on Pinoy cuisine.

Serai, named after the Tagalog word for lemongrass, encapsulates the essence of Filipino cuisine with a modern twist. 

Opened by the ex-Rice Paper Sister chef, Ross Magnaye, Serai employs fire-based cooking techniques that reflect Magnaye’s playful and irreverent approach. 

The restaurant’s industrial-chic setting, tucked away in a laneway off Little Bourke Street, adds to its allure, with rust-coloured doors serving as a whimsical prelude to the culinary adventure that awaits within. 

The bustling atmosphere and impeccable service enhance the dining experience, making Serai a culinary spectacle that captivates both the palate and the senses. Whether you’re drawn to the ringside seats overlooking the bustling hearth or navigating the eclectic wine list, Serai promises a journey through flavours that are both old, new, and undeniably wonderful—a true reference point in Melbourne’s diverse gastronomic landscape.

The starters tantalised the palate, starting with the ‘Sinuglaw,’ where seared bonito met the rich smokiness of pork jowl, perfectly complemented by the tangy notes of pinakurat and calamansi. This dish was a delightful dance of textures and tastes, a harmonious prelude to what awaited.

The ‘Kare Kare’ hash brown presented a creative reinterpretation, the crispy hash brown playing a perfect foil to the luscious peanut sauce, with the salted duck egg adding a savoury depth that elevated the dish to new heights. Mooloolaba king prawns, adorned with smoked buro butter and nestled in pandesal, offered a luxurious and succulent experience, a testament to Serai’s commitment to redefining traditional Filipino flavours.

For the mains, we had the Gippsland lamb ribs bathed in sticky ‘adobo’ sauce. The tender meat, infused with the sweet and savoury adobo glaze, showcased the kitchen’s mastery in balancing flavours. Above all, we so enjoyed the Filipino fried chicken, served with “happy” gravy and vin naturel, was a crispy delight that spoke to the soul, marrying traditional comfort with contemporary flair.

For dessert, the ‘Green Mango, Coconut, and Calamansi Ice Drop’ provided a refreshing and palate-cleansing conclusion. The tartness of the calamansi, creamy coconut, and the vibrant essence of green mango was the perfect balance to the richness in the mains.

Serai’s commitment to modernising Filipino cuisine was evident in each thoughtfully crafted dish. The attentive service, coupled with a vibrant atmosphere, enhanced the overall dining experience.

Serai is not merely a restaurant; it is a testament to the evolving narrative of Filipino flavours, inviting patrons to savour the familiar with a contemporary twist. This culinary expedition at Serai was nothing short of a celebration, leaving an mark on the taste buds and a yearning for a return to this Melbourne gem.

Serai

Racing Club Lane

Melbourne