Ela Carte reviews Copperpot, in Seddon

Copperpot ? 105 Victoria St Seddon ? www.copperpotseddon.com

Righto Burnso, you’ve got the swish neighbourhood joint that you love, this is mine. A recent addition to the inner west, and probably a little flashier than we are used to.

Owner and chef Ashley Davis might have grown up in the inner west, but he’s cooks in some of Australia and Europe’s top kitchens, including Helene Darroze at The Connaught which he took from one to two Michelin Stars. But he’s back where it all began, at Copperpot, with a menu he has dubbed ‘A foodies’ road trip across Europe’.

Ela ordered the Kasespaetzle simply so she could say it out loud.

I love that each item denotes its origins, number plate style ? so you’ll know if your Anchovies derive from a Catalonian dish, or that your Burrata’s straight from Italian table.

This is share plate eating, with dishes of varying styles, and they can add up ? but at this quality, it is well worth it.

The mussels were phenomenal, plump and just cooked.

We started with seared scallops in a Marseille style fish soup ? based on a classic bouillabaisse, rich broth, and perfectly cooked seafood. Loved it.

Even better though was the baby whiting ? didn’t really know what to expect from a dish called ‘Crispy young whiting on the beach’, but what arrived was whole young fish you’d be served up on the coasts of Italy, Spain, Portugal or green. Delicate flesh, with super light crispy crumb and a glorious house-made tartare ? it was an absolute delight.

The baby whiting was an absolute delight.

The Belgian mussels weren’t my choice, but thank god someone ordered them. Steamed open in white wine, they’re finished with a garlic and parsley cream and the quintessential pommes frites. Those mussels were phenomenal, plump and just cooked, I was hoping they were Portarlington specials, but must admit they came across the sea from Spring Bay, Tasmania.

Ordered the Kasespaetzle simply so I could say it out loud, a German version of mac and cheese. Fresh pasta made with whole eggs, smothered in an aged hard cheese like Gruyere and served with crispy onions and bread crumbs. Comfort food at its best.

Seared scallops: rich broth, perfectly cooked seafood.

Little did he know, Ashley had a challenge ahead of him with the breast of lamb ? my sister in law makes the best lamb breast in Europe. Well, she did. This one was pretty bloody good. The meat is deboned and rolled with herbs and garlic then slow cooked. Slices are served with organic carrots and soft sheep curd ? it’s tender and juicy, a real heartwarming meal.

The wine list traverses Australia and Europe, glasses will set you back between $8 and $14 a glass, but you can also get a third of a bottle/carafe which is handy.

For a neighbourhood joint in the western suburbs, this seriously food ? it might not be your fall back for a midweek meal out, but it’s absolutely the only option for a local dinner to impress.