Listen back to Tony’s full review

The Graham Hotel

97 Graham St, Port Melbourne

Phone: (03) 9676 2566

Having long maintained that Port Melbourne is the equal, if not best, suburb for pub life in Victoria, today’s pub – The Graham Hotel – sits comfortably with any of its competitors for food/bev/hospitality.

The Graham has been a long time fixture in the borough, sufficiently away from the main drag of Bay St, and has carved out in its own territory with an excellent offer that is all ages in appeal.

The facade, beautiful emerald green tiles against black/white exterior looks so pretty with seating for around 20 on Graham St.

Inside you are met by a thriving front bar, (footy and races going on various screens but not intruding) and is reminiscent of the wonderful front bars of Swallows and The Cricketers in Port Melbourne that are adjacent to the light rail.

The dining room has properly set tables, linen cloth napkins, heavy cutlery, salt/peppers shakers that work (!), reminds of an era past when the Graham matched it with higher end restaurants, and to be fair, wasn’t really a traditional pub. The open kitchen fixates you in its operation and doesn’t miss a beat.

An airy atrium further on (where the back bar once stood), set out with banquette seating, and then discreet areas for private functions, this is as pretty as it gets in Melbourne’s pub scene.

Much is packed in: Compact but not cluttered. Table Service from mature staff who get it. All hospitality bases are covered.

Pokies: No
Tab: No

In keeping with its long won reputation, the food is better level pub staples/favourites. For sure priced higher, but better quality deserves this extra.

Entrees, for example offer grilled tiger prawns, lime and chilli butter, kohlrabi herb salad (24), fried whitebait, beetroot hummus, herbs chilli, lemon ($23), or a wonderful green olive and tomato focaccia, ginger and scallion butter, smoked salt (12). There are around a dozen entrees to choose from.

Mains offer a 500g flounder, caper beurre noisette, citrus fennel salad ($42), wagyu beef schnitzel, crushed potato salad, RWJ (38), or harissa lamb rump, black tahini yoghurt, mint/feta salad ($42). The above is only a sample but represents commonly found meals in pubs but simply raised to a better, exciting level.

Highlights. Plenty. Indeed. While the scallops are $8 each, they are accompanied by mushroom XO butter, micro coriander, and are cooked with a perfect translucency. Moist. Warm. Fresh. Wonderful.

The Flinders Island lamb pie, carrot and parsnip pie, vegetables jus ($36) is highlighted by the cooking which ensures the lamb has a silky smooth texture from the first bite with the vegetables in perfect support.

There are two large share plates, the “Graham” is a feast of kofta kebabs, dukkah prawns, chermoula calamari tzatziki and Moroccan slaw. The share is $50, feeds two comfortably and the win for those buying is a sample of the taste that the kitchen is banging out.

Seven days a week, 12 hours a day, the Graham operates without pokies or a TAB, relying on quality, service and reputation to get through and, succeeding on all levels.

The Graham, Port Melbourne, is a definite contender for the De Bortoli pub of the year.

SCORE: 15.5