Junction Hotel

15 Hall Street, Newport.
9391 8188

When? March 17, 2023.
www.junctionnewport.com.au

VENUE

In setting the tone of this review I’ll start as follows: The Junction Hotel in Newport is fabulous.

In the shadows of Newport Station – literally no more than 20 metres from the platform that heads to either Williamstown,  Werribee or Altona- the Junction is hidden away somewhat,  with some delightful shops evoking a village atmosphere.

Stand back and you will be reminded of the old Parliament House in Canberra.

Deceptively big, the Junction is made up of many parts, but at no stage do you lose the welcoming feel. Front Bar and dining room, through to shaded and open Beer Garden/Decking,  zigzag to  a semi circular dining/bar/wine room.

Perfectly lit, the mood of comfort is established from the get go, never losing a true pub feel.

The bar houses a number of taps – Independents,  No Carlton D – but the glassware is top notch to ensure serving at a premium. Music is kept to a reasonable level, providing a background not overwhelming soundtrack.

Young staff work the floor. Sit there, table service is provided. For sure there is more than enough space for a group to stand around but they want to bring the best in hospitality.

The pub has scored the culinary services of Scott Thomas, who in my opinion, is one of the best pub chefs in all the years of my reviewing. Running the kitchen at the Courthouse, Nth Melb, then Montague, Sth Melb, then Plough Footscray, he landed at the Junction.  Great pub grub, raised to a better level, very fairly priced for the quality.

He has learned his trade and the nuances of pub cooking so well and is now backed up by an eager kitchen, banging out great food.

It is an independent pub, run by owner operator  (No TAB/No Pokies), supporting smaller breweries and wineries.

The Junction Newport is in fine form. Just go.

FOOD/DRINK

The menu is compact, 6 or so choices for entrees/mains.

Sourdough focaccia, whipped ricotta, za’tar, olive oil (8) has a lap on your standard garlic bread. Duck, Pork, Pistachio terrine (14), sits alongside Buttermilk Chicken, Pickles, BBQ Sauce (15).

Mains stick to the pub favourites of, say, Cheeseburger, Tomato, Pickles, Chips (24), Chicken Parma, full whack  (27) along with Grilled Swordfish, Nicoise salad (27), and Pork Cutlet, Braised Cannellini,  Beans, Pancetta(30).

The Pub has some wonderful specials midweek, highlighted by Wednesday Steak night, when the price is a bargain at $23, with wines and beer similarly reduced.

Sunday roast – $25 – is a celebration of everyone’s favourite dish and varies on a weekly basis. Bookings a must. Children under 12 can enjoy a free serving a free rigatoni bolognaise while the parents enjoy a meal with cheaper beer and wine (430pm-6, Tues -F).

Beer was properly presented with a local Newport Draught from Fury and Sons, the preferred. Sunday Roast, $25, carries a warning. Book Early!.  Wines start from 11pg, and the offer isn’t the standard you are likely to see in a pub. Elderton Chardonnay (13pg), Massena GSM (15) were tried and thoroughly enjoyed.

The average prices are;

• Entrees – $15
• Mains – $28
• Dessert – $14

Tried was;

• Calamari, Green Chilli, rocket, Herb Mayo. $15. Very Good. The calamari, covered in a slightly thicker and crisp coating, is flecked with green chilli. Hot and plentiful, presentation excellent, you can easily consider a second serve to substitute from a main.
• Sunday Roast. $25.  Excellent.  Slow roasted lamb shoulder, sits beneath a mix of spinach, capers, feta, with good sized wedges of lemon scented and roasted kipflers. Ripper gravy at the bottom adds another layer.  Take a tip; Order a serve of Sourdough and mop it up.
• Junction Cheeseburger $24. Very much his calling card, the tightly packed beef is plentiful, the fillings are great, Brioche Bun and mayo houses it all. Yep.  One of Scott’s signature dishes so well executed after all these years.

SUMMARY

Around a decade ago, the Junction went all in and changed direction from stock standard western suburbs pub to elevating to a higher level. What a canny move as Newport was changing with the times.

The great trick of retaining a local pub feel, but just doing it better is evidenced when you go and much credit to the owners who held their nerve to now have one of the top 5  pubs in the West (IMO).

But somehow, it remains one of the harder pubs to find in its backstreet location. (Dont go over the rail bridge and try and find it – You’ll be in Williamstown before you know it). Turn off at Hudson Rd, (it’s the one to Scienceworks) and go right just past Spotswood station.

The Junction Hotel is excellent.

SCORE: 15.5/20